Bolivia country information

Republic of Bolivia
Area: 1,098,581sq km
Population: 9,119,152
Population density: 8.4 per sq km
Capital: La Paz

Passport & Visa

Passport Required?
British	Yes
Australian	Yes
Canadian	Yes
USA	Yes
Other EU	Yes
Visa Required?
British	No/3
Australian	No/3
Canadian	No/3
USA	Yes/1/2/3
Other EU	No/1/3

Passports

Passport valid for at least six months beyond the intended length of stay required by all nationals referred to in the chart above.

Visas

Not required by all nationals referred to in the chart above except the following, provided travelling for touristic purposes:
(a) 1. nationals of Bulgaria, Cyprus, Malta, Romania and the USA. 2. Nationals of the US are advised that on 1 January 2007 the Bolivian president decreed that all US citizens wishing to enter Boliva, for any purpose, would now require a visa. The Bolivian Foreign Ministry are currently formulating procedures to implement this. US nationals wishing to enter Bolivia are advised to contact the nearest Bolivian embassy or consulate for further information.
Note: (a) 3. All nationals travelling on business do need a Specific Purpose visa. (b) Nationals not requiring a tourist visa are usually allowed to stay for a period of 30 to 90 days; check with the embassy (or consular section at embassy). (c) Nationals not referred to in the chart above are advised to contact the embassy to check visa requirements.

Types of Visa and Cost

Tourist/Transit: Cost depends on nationality; enquire at the embassy (or consular section at embassy).

Validity

Tourist visas are valid for 30 days but can be extended for up to 90 days (depending on nationality) from the date of entry. Specific Purpose visas are valid for 30 days and can be renewed for 60 or 90 additional days at the immigration office in Bolivia. Student visas are valid for 60 days. Transit visas are valid for 15 days.

Applications to:

Consulate (or consular section at embassy).

Working Days Required

One to two for nationals requiring tourist visas without special authorisation. Approximately six weeks for all other nationals requiring tourist visas and special authorisation from the Bolivian Ministry of Foreign Affairs.

Getting there

Getting There by Air

The national airline is AeroSur ( website: www.aerosur.com ).

Approximate Flight Times

There are no direct flights from the UK. The main routes involve transit in Sao Paulo, Buenos Aires or Miami for connections to La Paz and Santa Cruz. Flight time from London via Buenos Aires and Madrid is 16 hours. From Miami to Santa Cruz is 7 hours.

Main Airports

La Paz (LPB) (El Alto International) is 14km (8.5 miles) southwest of La Paz. To/from the airport: Regular minibus services to the city depart after scheduled flight arrivals (journey time - 20 minutes), heading for the terminus at Plaza Isabel La Católica. Facilities: restaurant and cafe, call centre and Internet access.

Santa Cruz (VVI) (Viru Viru International) is 16km (10 miles) from the centre of Santa Cruz and is the largest airport in Bolivia. To/from the airport: Regular minibus services to the city depart after scheduled flight arrivals (journey time - 30 minutes), heading for the terminus at the statue of Christ the Redeemer. Facilities: Cafe, sandwich bar, call centre, hotel reservations, Internet access and duty-free facilities.

For further information, contact the Bolivian Airports Service (SABSA) (website: www.sabsa.aero ).

Air Passes

oneworld Visit South America Pass: valid for unlimited travel to 34 cities in ten countries: Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Colombia, Chile (except Easter Island), Ecuador, Paraguay, Peru, Uruguay and Venezuela. Participating airlines include American Airlines (AA), British Airways (BA), Iberia (IB) and LAN (LA). The pass must be bought outside South America in the country of residence. A minimum of three flights must be booked, with a maximum of 20; prices depend on the amount of flight zones. For further details, contact one of the participating airlines.

Departure Tax

US$24. Payable in US Dollars for all non-residents. There is also a national passenger tax of Bs169 for international departures.

Getting There by Water

Although it is a member of the International Maritime Organisation, Bolivia is wholly landlocked and not served by cruises. However, it is possible to reach ports in Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Paraguay and Peru by ship and, from there, there are rail connections to La Paz or Santa Cruz. The nearest seaport is Arica in the extreme north of Chile. There are also crossings at Port Heath on the Madre de Dios river (Peru), the Bermejo or Pilcomayo rivers (Argentina) and from Brasilia to Cobija across to the Acre River and from Guayaramerin across the Heinez river (both in Brazil).

Steamers cross Lake Titicaca to the Peruvian port of Puno from Guaqui, the most important port on the lake. Situated 90km (56 miles) from La Paz, it is accessible by road but the journey is a rough one.

Getting There by Rail

There are rail connections from Oruro to La Quiaca and Pocitos (Argentina), and a connection to Corumba (Brazil).

Getting There by Road

The Pan-American Highway, which links Argentina with Peru and Ecuador, skirts Bolivian territory from the south to the northwest. Driving in the rainy season may be hazardous. Principal highways are generally well-maintained.

Cycling & Maps

		Download our Cycling South West Bolivia Tour • guide Best and most up-to-date guide for cycling in Bolivia.

	Bolivia Map by Reise Know-How scale 1:1 300 000 rip & waterproof Our experience: double check all the distances on the map with the distances above (if you are planning to take the same route). There are quite a few (big) mistakes on this map.	Bolivia Map International Travel Maps scale 1:2 000 000 waterproof

Free maps of Bolivia on Mira Bolivia

GPS	Free maps for GPS from http://viajerosmapas.com/

If you are planning to travel the Salar de Uyuni and the south-west of Bolivia (road to Laguna Verde and San Pedro de Atacama), then there are some very useful sites with adequate maps on internet. These are the ones we used (December 2009): www.irisentoreopreis.nl/lagunaverde_map.shtml www.irisentoreopreis.nl/tunupa_map.shtml www.betzgi.ch/en/cycletours/route-infos/bolivia/lagunas/route-description.html www.sekiji.net As you can see, we have made a map ourselves (above), with the help of James Pratt and Kevin Bauer, so this is the latest map on the region, as far as we know. Water sources, shops, accommodation, distances and elevation charts included.

Cost of living

Bolivia: all prices in Bolivian Bolivianos (BOB)

drinks and snacks			food: local markets; restaurants; and stores
water (drinking) water (drinking) juice juice soft drink (bottle) soft drink (bottle)	650ml 2.0 litre 200ml 1 litre 500ml 2.0 litre	2.00 3.50 2.50 5.50 3.00 6.50	bread loaf-white bread loaf-whole grain dinner rolls-assorted baguette-large bagels	600g 700g per 5 280g 6 pack	8.50 10.50 2.00 3.00 11.50
			local market food cafe - vegetarian meal vegetarian cafe tourist restaurant breakfast - americano pizza	one serving one serving set meal one serving one serving familiar	tba 20-30.00 12.00+ 25-40.00 15-22.00 40-60.00
beer- local beer- local beer- local wine - bottle wine - tetra pack	330ml 620ml 1 litre 750ml 1litre	5.50 7.50-8.00 12.00 20.00+ tba
tea coffee (cafe / bar) Nescafe instant coffee - ground	20 bags per cup 50g 500g	3.50 7.00+ 11.50 7.50-12.00	rice (white) pasta eggs tomato paste - tin	kg 400g per ½ dozen 140g	7.50 3.50 5.00 3.50
soya milk (fresh) milk yoghurt / curd olives cheese - mozarella cheese - local hard Magnum-like icecream	1 litre 1 litre 140g 300g 500g kg each	3.00 4.50 2.50 8.00 20.00 30.00+ 4.00	potatoes onions tomatoes green beans brocolli carrots chuño-dried potatoes	kg kg kg kg kg kg 500g	5.00 7.50 5.50 8.00 7.00 5.00 20.00
chips salted peanuts castañas-[brazil nuts] sultanans habas-[broadbeans] dried apricots	260g packet 500g 500g 500g 500g 500g	12.00 7.00 15.00 10.00 10.00 20.00	apples oranges bananas grapes granadillo strawberries	kg kg kg kg kg 500g	10.00 8.00 4.00 15.00 10.00 10.00
cornflakes chocolate museli bars biscuits - plain biscuits- chocolate	200g packet 200g block 6x25g 145g packet 132g packet	12.00 14.00 12.50 3.50 5.00	pineapple (can) oil (corn)	900g can 450ml	18.00 5.50
			peanut paste jam honey	510g jar 300g 230g jar	33.00 5.00 14.00
* Majority of prices obtained from the Hipermaxi S.A. supermarket chain found in La Paz, Cochabamba and Santa Cruz. Street vendor and market prices can be considerably cheaper if you shop around.
accommodation			personal
budget city hostel city residentia budget-mid city hotel	25.00 per dorm bed 30.00+ / person-share bathroom 50-180.00 (double) with bathroom		deodorant - roll-on soap shampoo toothbrush toothpaste disposable razor toilet paper	50ml 125g bar 200ml each 90gl 2 pack per 2	13.50 3.50 10.50 8.00+ 5.50 5.00 5.00
camping	tba
internet	2.00 - 10.00 per hour

* tba = price to be announced
* December 2009: at time of writing 1.00 USD = 7.08 BOB
all prices have been taken from internet resources such as wikitravel, hostel world, leading supermarket chains, travel blogs, forums and of course our own travel experiences and purchases of everyday products in food markets, bazaars and local shopping facilities. They are only an indication and designed to give you a general impression of the cost of living in Bolivia. Items are geared towards the budget conscious traveller with an occasional craving for a bit of luxury.

Source: www.exchange-rates.org

A couple of extra tips:

*	Haggling is without a doubt acceptable in Bolivian market places and especially when purchasing souvenirs in touristy areas. Buying in bulk will also add to your bargaining power, so take advantage of it.
*	Tipping is not a big part of Bolivian culture and is therefore not necessarily expected. That said, it is always appreciated if the service is good. In the bigger cities with a higher population of tourists, tipping is slowly becoming the norm. Even high-end establishments are adding an automatic service charge to the bill.
*	Taxi drivers do not expect tips in Bolivia, unless of course you feel like rewarding the brilliant driving skills that got you to the airport on time.
*	There are no ATMs in Copacabana that accept foreign bank cards. there are an abundance of money exchange businesses

Accommodation

In cities and larger towns there is plenty accommodation for travellers to choose from. Residentias, hospedajes and hostals are generally the best choice for the budget minded, while hotels offer a bit more luxoury. You'll be lucky to find something mid-range for anything less than 180 Bolivianos for a double. Beware of the lure of inclusivo desayuno [breakfast included]: you are likely to walk away disappointed with the a weak coffee, small glass of juice, one bread roll, and portion controlled butter and jam. The usual South and Central American room checklist applies in Bolivia too. Ask if there is hot water all day and whether the television on display actually works. If you need electricity, check there are available points in the room and confirm that they are also operational. More often than not towels, toilet paper and soap are included in the cost of your room, but you may need to ask for these. Outside the bigger cities, the basic accommodation can be really abysmal and if you have the option, you are actually better off camping wild. Generally you'll get a saggy wire framed bed in a cement block with no shower and sometimes no or pretty shameful toilet facilities. And for this privilege, landlords will ask for as much as 15 Bolivianos per person. In 2009, a low budget city residencia went for around 30 Bolivianos per person with a share shower and toilet, though some of these alojamientos are extremely small, grotty and with poor security. Therefore, it pays to shop around for a place where the owners have a bit more pride and keep the premises clean albeit the basic nature of the lodgings. Camping in Bolivia It is really easy to camp wild in Bolivia, simply because there are few large townships and many wide open spaces in the middle of nowhere. While it is not always possible, it is advisable to camp away from the road and keep yourself hidden from passing traffic. In general though, farmers and villagers won't bat an eyelid at you setting up your tent on a patch of land. They'll most likely wave hello and be on their merry way. Your biggest concerns are going to be finding a decent water supply and a windbreak from the strong westerly winds that can surprise you at any time of day, but mostly hit in the afternoon. In the areas near the Salar de Uyuni and further south you need to plan your trip thoroughly and carry enough water for anything up to 3 days of cycling (or trying to cycle). A purifier or some form of water treatment is a must in the Bolivian outback.
Acommodation we used while in Bolivia November / December 2009): (prices, based on two people sharing, in Bolivian Bolivianos)
Star system explained: from 0 to *** where 0 is a total disaster and *** is luxurious (and out of our price range)

City / town:	Name accommodation:	Our experience:	Price:	Stars:

Batallas	no name, two blocks from plaza	dump, no shower	30 Bollie's	0
Copacabana	Hostal Sonia	good choice, friendly, safe	50 Bollie's	***
La Paz	Hotel Fuentes	ok, crap breakfast, free internet	160 Bollie's	**
Oruro	Hotel Repostero	very bad service, rude	170 Bollie's	0
Oruro	Residencial Ideal	simple but clean, friendly	60 Bollie's	**½
San Juan de Rosario	Hospedaje Max	good room, sometimes electricity	80 Bollie's	**
Tholar	Hotel Gran Poder	overpriced, grumpy	100 Bollie's	*½

Food & drink

Bolivian cuisine is not going to get vegetarians dancing merrily round the dinner table. Like other South American countries, many of the ingredients and cooking methods are similar depending whether you are at high altitudes on the altiplano or lower in the Amazon jungle. By and large though, potatoes, corn, rice, quinoa, aji peppers and plenty of meat make up the staple diet. Humitas (similar to the Mexican tamale) and dishes using chuño: a traditional freeze dried potato from the Andes region are common.

Quinoa [keen-wah] also grows at high altitude and has been part of Bolivian cuisine for centuries. This robust plant brought sustenance to those living in the harsh conditions in altiplano regions. The grain has a similar nutty flavour to couscous, though in texture crunchier and a little firmer. Cooking methods are the same and for those seeking a protein boost, this is certainly the grain for you.

The concept of vegetarianism is not well understood and non-meat eaters will need to be constantly on their toes to check whether animal products have been incorporated in the meal or not. As a rule, soups and stews are frequently made with meat stock, but you will be able to order arroz [rice], papas [potato] or yucca [sweet potato], queso [cheese], huevos fritos [fried egg] and ensalada [salad] in most local cafes. Not the most culinary of choices, but filling at least.

VEGETARIAN TALK - Spanish

Soy vegetariano/a = I am vegetarian m/f

No como...ni... = I don't eat...nor...
Yo como...y... = I eat...and...
No quiero...o... = I don't want...or...

carne = meat
cerdo or puerco = pork
pollo [poh-yo] = chicken
pescado = fish
huevos = eggs
leche = milk
lácteos = milk products
queso = cheese

vedura = vegetables
fruta (fresca) = (fresh) fruit

Quiero... = I want...
Quisiera un plato que lleve... =
I want a dish containing ...

por favor = please
gracias = thank you
de nada = you're welcome

In the larger cities like La Paz, Sucre, and Santa Cruz, there are more options for vegetarian eating. Firstly the restaurant scene is varied and secondly, the supermarkets are larger and are well stocked with fresh fruit and vegetables. The central market place is also another place well worth going to if you want supplies for self catering.

As far as restaurants go, there are many to chose from and HappyCow has a list of some on offer. Beware though, many of the vegetarian buffets and tiendas naturas [health shops] are open for lunch only. If you are in La Paz and feel like splurging on something different then The Star of India Curry House on Calle Cochabamba 170 has several delicious choices on their menu. And then there is always the vegetarian's safety-net-dinner in South America: the pizza. The best in town has to be Pizza la Mia on Calle Illampu 809. They also hit the jackpot with vegans by selling tasty falafels as well.

Out of the more populated areas, food is not as readily available and even more remote townships have only packaged and tinned products for sale. So, it pays to stock up well on all the favourite food items in the larger cities.

Water is not really reliable in Bolivia, so to be on the safe side: either filter or treat the tap water or purchase bottled water, which is easily found in populated areas. Rural towns also stock bottled water, but if you are heading off the beaten track, then it can be hard to find a decent water source.

See our detailed map under the cycling in Bolivia section on this page for more details on water supplies in remote areas in the southwest of Bolivia. (SOON!)

Herbal teas are popular in Bolivia and none more so than maté de coca [coca leaf tea]. It not only assists in acclimatisation, but depresses hunger and fatigue as well. Another favourite, drunk mostly at breakfast is apí : a tasty hot beverage made from corn, lemon, cloves and cinnamon. Licuados, vitamised fruit juices with either water or milk are just as fashionable here as anywhere in South America. And it goes without saying that so is the cerverza [beer]. The most widespread brands being Paceña and Huari.

Why not try these for starters?

Papa a la Huancaína
Popular in both Peru and Bolivia, this traditional side dish is commonly served at room temperature. Imagine some of the creamiest boiled potatoes smothered in a slightly spicy peanut sauce, served with a boiled egg and garnished with lettuce and black olives. Sounds more like a meal really.

Empanadas de Queso
Turnover shaped pastries filled with cheese and either baked or deep fried until golden brown. An uncomplicated but satisfying snack available from street vendors, bakeries and corner stores.

Chuño [Tunta] Phuti
This simple but hearty dish uses the dehydrated-frozen potato so commonly seen in grocery stores throughout Bolivia and Peru. It couldn't be easier than scrambling eggs with a basic tomato sauce and combine boiled chuño wedges. Finish off with freshly crumbled queso fresa [fresh cheese] on top.

Sopa de Mani
An all time favourite and typical to Bolivian cuisine, sopa de mani is a nourishing soup combining peanuts cabbage and chickpeas. Topped off with crusty bread or a plate of steamed rice, you'll be in for a flavoursome treat. Non-meat eaters will need to make sure that the stock used is not animal based, however this meal is often prepared only with the use of vegetables.

Cocadas
Commonly known in the west as coconut macaroons, these Bolivian cookies come with the added flavour of sesame seeds. For the most tasty, head straight to the local panaderia [bakery].

Leche Asada
Translated literally as roasted milk, this is Bolivia's answer to creme brulee. A delicious baked egg custard that will turn your day completely around. Promise!

Chuflay
Add a little zip to your afternoon with this cocktail fashioned from Singani, a grape liquor mixed with Sprite or ginger ale and garnished with wedge of lime. Tangy, refreshing and a perfect relaxant.

Chicha
This sour alcoholic brew is fermented from corn and traditionally drunk from a hollowed gourd, which by the way is impossible to set down due to its rounded bottom. Stands to reason then that it is not hard to become a little merry from this potent liquor. But remember, spilling a bit of chica on the ground is no disgrace in Bolivia: it is actually the custom to do so before and after drinking it as an offering to the celebrated Inca earth goddess: Pachamama.

Bike shops


La Paz	Gravity Bolivia bike maintenance and supply store Calle Victor Sanjinez 3050 B Sopocachi La Paz Tel: 719 89239 (ask for Gustavo or Fernando) E-mail: gravityalmacen@hotmail.com Gravity Bolivia Office** (no shop, only for info) Av. 16 de Julio #1490 Edificio Avenida Plata Baja, Oficina #10 La Paz, Bolivia tel: (591) 2231 3849 fax: (591) 2231 0023

	Our experience (December 2009): Gravity Bolivia is a bike touring company with over a hundred mountain bikes. For this they have quite a big bike maintenance store (with nine service stations). Here you can buy parts from. But, most of the gear is used for off-roading and downhill, so you won't be able to find that slick tyre that you are looking for; they just don't stock that kind of stuff. But enough cables, pumps, shifters etc. Probably the only shop in town that sells high quality gear... Call first to see if there is anybody there and to make an appointment; ask for Gustavo (chief mechanic) or Fernando (manager).

Climate

Road distances

Detailed distance chart from our trip through Bolivia - November / December 2009 (km/alti)

	altitude (in metres) in brackets	accomm.:	km	altimeters
	H= hotel /hostal / hospedaje / alojamiento / residencial

Border Peru / Kasani	Copacabana (3850)	H	10	141
Copacabana	top climb (4251)		11	375
top climb	ferry at Tiquina (3815)		28	99
ferry at Tiquina	Huatajata (3824)	H	26	287
Huatajata	Huarina (3820)	H	12	67
Huarina	Batallas (3839)	H	14	49
Batallas	Rio Seco (4079)	H	46	309
Rio Seco	El Alto (4085)	H	3	19
El Alto	La Paz (3683)	H	9	28

La Paz	El Alto (4085)	H	13	441
El Alto	Tholar (3968)	H	59	335
Tholar	turn-off Viscachani (H, 3844))		24	48
turn-off Viscachani	Patacamaya (3800)	H	7	2
Patacamaya	Sica Sica (3917)	H	21	157
Sica Sica	Kokani (3802)	H	26	44
Kokani	Panduro (3926)		10	133
Panduro	top climb (3960)		7	65
top climb	Caracollo (3819)	H	24	43
Caracollo	Oruro (3759)	H	38	70

Oruro	Machacamarca (3587)		32	94
Machacamarca	Poópo (3605)		23	65
Poópo	Pazña (3614)		25	86
Pazña	Huancane (3600)		14	14
Huancane	Challapata (3631)	H	24	54
Challapata	Huari (3659)	H	14	58
Huari	Quillacas (3711)	H	32	136
Quillacas	Vengalvinto (3651)		15	21
Vengalvinto	Tambillo (3719)		36	297
Tambillo	Salinas (3682)	H	45	251
Salinas	turn off to Lllica (3673)		3	24
turn off to Llica	Irpani (3662)		14	87
Irpani	Alianza (3748)		10	152
Alianza	Tahua (3690)		10	91
Tahua	start Salar de Uyuni (3660)		3	13
start Salar de Uyuni	Isla Incahuasi (3660)	H	37	--
Isla Incahuasi	dry land south (3660)		42	--
dry land south	turn off to Colcha K. (3713)		16	244
turn off to Colcha K.	trun off Julula (3733)		3	24
turn off Julula	San Juan de Rosario (3715)	H	26	143
San Juan de Rosario	Chiguana (3724)		30	78
Chiguana	Avaroa (border Chile, 3740)		32	149