food: local markets; restaurants; and stores

Take a quick trip down the meat aisle at any Ecuadorian market and you will soon understand that the kitchen in this country essentially evolves around animal products. Not only the common cuts of pig, chicken, cow, goat or lamb hang from the hooks, but also cuy [guinea pig], pata [cow's hooves] and the bull's sexual organs for the famous tronquito [bull penis soup]

Luckily for the vegetarian, these markets are an array of colour and variety of non-meat elements as well. Countless species of Andean potatoes from large watermelon types to the tiniest crumbly criolle variety, freshly picked herbs, all the standard vegetables and of course the never ending list of wildly exotic fruits. Queso [cheese] is also in bountiful supply, though the selection fairly limited. Supermarkets are equally stocked with fresh and packaged products.

It is common practice for Ecuadorians to eat out at least once a day and for the budget traveller, this option is also widely available whether that be desayuno [breakfast]; almuzero [lunch]; or merienda [dinner]. The general trend is to order the daily set meal consisting of soup, main course and a glass of juice. In 2009, this value for money deal would set you back from $US1.50.

Unfortunately for vegetarians, the choice is somewhat limited in local eating establishments, since nearly all the soups are made with animal stock and the main dish will undoubtedly come with a piece of meat. It is no problem to ask for your meal minus the meat, but all that you will have left over is arroz [rice], possibly choclo [corn] papas [potatoes] or patacones [flattened double fried plantains] and a small salad. In some areas lentajas [lentils] or frijoles [red beans] will replace the potatoes, but here too a vegetarian needs to be careful since they often prepare these with pork or animal fat.

If you like peppery food, then the addition of aji [a type of chilli sauce] will spice up your fairly plain meal and every eatery table has a bowl of this national culinary condiment on it. The local recipe does differ from region to region, but more often than not, it is a creamy chilli sauce made from the aji pepper with chopped, onions, garlic and coriander. Bottled aji tastes completely different again, but also found on every restaurant table along with the salsa china [soy sauce], salsa de tomate [ketchup] and sal [salt].

Another option for vegetarians is the local Chifa [Chinese restaurant]. Here, your choice will generally include chaulafan con veduras [fried rice with vegetables] and tallarin con veduras [thin egg noodles with vegetables], though the sauce associated with the latter can occasionally be made with meat stock. Homemade papas fritos [fried potato chips] are also a common menu item.

Vegetarian pizza is also available in most decent sized towns, though they are expensive relative to other dining alternatives. Naturally, in the larger cities there are more opportunities for the non-meat eater including Hare Krishna, Indian and vegetarian buffet establishments. HappyCow has lists of such places throughout Ecuador.

Away from the eateries, street stalls also sell a few suitable snacks like llapingachos [potato and cheese pancakes], choclo [roasted corn on the cob], cancha [toasted and slightly popped corn] or morocho de leche [hot cinnamon spiced milk with corn], that will serve you more as a meal than a drink. The Ecuadorian panaderia [bakery] is of course, a safe haven for vegetarians too, with its wide assortment of breads, pastries and savoury snacks. Pan de queso [cheese baked bread], cachos [croissants] and empanadas de queso [small pastry turnovers filled with cheese]

Hygiene is questionable at the best of times, in Ecuador, so when it comes to eating out, it certainly pays to keep your eyes open and only frequent those places that the locals also flock to.