Area: 21,040 sq km
Population: 7,100,000
Population density: 318.7 per sq km
Capital: San Salvador
Passport Required? | |
---|---|
British | Yes |
Australian | Yes |
Canadian | Yes |
USA | Yes |
Other EU | Yes |
Visa Required? | |
British | No |
Australian | No |
Canadian | No/2 |
USA | No/2 |
Other EU | No/1/2 |
Cycling
in El Salvador Unfortunately, a few regions let the perfect road score down. The shoulders in Soyapango Delgado district for example are in bad repair and so full of potholes that it is impossible to ride an unloaded, let alone a loaded bicycle on them. The pedalling here is a whole new experience and paints a totally different side to cycle touring in El Salvador. If you think you are in for
an easy cycle in El Salvador, then think again.
This is volcano country and it undulates incessantly.
So when you do happen to meet with a flat valley,
enjoy it while you can, because, the microwave
tower you can see over yonder and high on the
hill is where you'll next be climbing to. And
your day's journey will be punctuated with these
sweaty ascents towards those red and white masts.
While the gradients are never really steep (averaging
4-6%), they are between 4 and 5 kilometres long
and with a blasting midday sun, life can seem
pretty tough at times. The beauty of it all are
the wonderful volcanic views and of course the
cooling plummet of equal intensity down the other
side. |
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Nicaragua/Honduras rip & waterproof |
El Salvador Map |
drinks and snacks | food: local markets; restaurants; and stores |
||||
water (drinking) |
1.5 litre 1gal (3.78 L) 1 litre 200ml 300ml 600ml 2 litre |
0.60 0.65 1.15 0.30 0.35 0.50 1.15 |
bread loaf-white |
390g 700g 250g (10 piece) |
0.90 2.30 1.10 |
pupusa nachos plantanous fritas papas fritos pizza-takeaway |
one serving one serving one serving one serving small |
0.40 2.00 0.50 0.50 5.00 |
|||
beer-local (can) beer-local (can) wine (tetra-pak) wine (bottle) |
354ml 493ml 1 litre 750ml |
0.75 1.05 5.00 5.50+ |
rice (white) pasta eggs tinned tomato paste |
kg 200g per eight 170g |
1.45 0.50 0.95 0.50 |
tea coffee (cafe / bar) Nescafe instant coffee-ground |
20 bags per cup 50g 227g |
1.50 0.40 1.80 1.35 |
potatoes onions tomatoes carrots avocado capsicum cucumber broccoli head garlic |
kg |
0.75 1.45 1.00 0.85 1.00 0.15 0.10-0.15 0.50 0.20 |
milk soya-milk yoghurt / curd cheese-processed Magnum icecream |
½ gallon 1 litre 150g kg each |
2.15 |
|||
chips salted peanuts salted cashews sultanas |
65g pack 75g 116g 150g |
0.75 0.55 2.50 0.75 |
apples oranges grapefruit bananas |
kg per dozen kg kg |
1.50-2.00 1.00 0.65 0.55 |
cornflakes chocolate museli bars biscuits-plain biscuits-chocolate |
265g pack 100g block 6x25g 116g pack 200g pack |
1.35 1.20 2.75 0.70 1.60 |
pineapple (can) oil (corn) |
480g can 450ml |
2.10 1.15 |
peanut paste jam |
340g jar 500g jar |
3.55 3.15 |
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* Majority of prices obtained from the budget supermarket chain: Despensa Familiar. | |||||
accommodation | personal | ||||
budget city hostel budget city hotel |
7.00-10.00 per dorm bed 12.00-16.00 single/double with bath |
deodorant - roll-on |
70g 125g bar 200ml each 90g 5 pack 4 pack |
1.30 0.55 2.00 1.25 1.20 0.95 0.65 |
|
camping | not really recommended, though
you can ask to camp at ranches or local village
houses. Use your intuition. |
||||
internet | 0.75-1.00 per hour wifi not readily available |
*
tba = price to be announced * May 2009: at time of writing 0.74 EUR = 1.00 USD all prices have been taken from internet resources such as wikitravel, hostel world, leading supermarket chains, travel blogs, forums and of course our own travel experiences and purchases of everyday products in food markets, bazaars and local shopping facilities. They are only an indication and designed to give you a general impression of the cost of living in El Salvador. Items are geared towards the budget conscious traveller with an occasional craving for a bit of luxury. |
* | Bargaining
at markets, for souvenirs and where prices are
not fixed is widely accepted. |
* | Tipping
is not expected in local eateries or budget hospitality
establishments. The more upmarket hotels and restaurants
could well tack a 10-15% service charge on top
of the bill. |
* |
Taxi drivers do not expect a tip and prices are usually arranged before accepting the ride. |
* | Prices are
sometimes quoted in a number of "Cores"
. One Cores is equivalent to a quarter or US25
dollar cents. For example: A head of broccoli
cost 3 Cores at a local market in Metapan. |
* | Sunday is
considered a traditional day in El Salvador and
except for large chain supermarkets most other
stores will be closed for the entire day. During
the week, smaller stores also shut for siesta,
which can change from place to place. Furthermore,
they have quite often closed their doors by 5pm
in the afternoon. |
Outside these spots, the options are not only few and far between, but you are likely to hit upon some of the grottiest, dankest overnight accommodation. you have ever been subjected to. Many establishments don't bother cleaning rooms until someone happens along. In this situation, you will more than likely be asked if it is necessary for them to clean the room or not. Have a checklist firm in mind when viewing the room and don't be scared to ask to see another if the first is not to your liking. It is also a good idea not to pay for the accommodation. until they have met all your requirements like replacing the sweaty dirty bed sheets, fixing the broken light globe, emptying the rubbish bins; given you clean towels and an extra pillow etc.
In 2009, 12-16 US dollars gets you a more often than not pretty dismal budget double room with a fan, cold shower and toilet facility.
Camping in El Salvador
Most of the country is owned and therefore fenced off
with barbed wire, so it is pretty well impossible to
pull off to the side of the road and pitch the tent
in El Salvador. Besides that, security is not altogether
good and therefore wild camping is probably not one
of the safest options for accommodation. This applies
to the whole of Central America and not specifically
El Salvador. If you were to find yourself stuck without
a roof over your head, then the best alternative would
be to ask a local in a village or small town with a
bit of land attached to their house.
Acommodation we used while in El Salvador (May 2009): (prices based on two people sharing) | ||||
Star system explained: from 0 to ***** where 0 is a total disaster and ***** is luxurious (and out of our price range) | ||||
City / town: | Name accommodation: | Our experience: | Price: | Stars: |
Cojutepeque | Hotel La Roca | small, but clean | US$ 16 | **½ |
Metapan | Hotel California | sounds good, but it isn't | US$ 15 | * |
Santa Ana | Hotel Libertad | huge room, but not too clean | US$ 12 | ** |
Santa Rosa de Lima | Hotel opposite police station | what a dump | US$ 10 | ½ |
El Triunfo | Hotel Las Margaritas | stay away... | US$ 14 | 0 |
Central America is definitely not a food haven for vegetarians in any way, shape or form. El Salvador is no exception and HappyCow has just 6 listings, all situated in the capital city: San Salvador. Over the years, intermarriage between native indigenous inhabitants and European populations have created a melting pot of cuisines. Even though onions, cheese and beef were introduced by Europeans, corn and beans have remained the foundation the Salvadoran diet. However, when a country boasts national delicacies such as iguana and armadillo, and soups comprising cows feet and tripe or rooster, it is reason enough for the non-meat eater to get a little worried about the traditional Salvadorian meal dished up in front of them. Rest assured, there are a few options for vegetarians in the kitchens of El Salvador. For starters, you could always fill up on a typical Salvadorian breakfast: known as platos típicos (national dish) or desayuno típicos (traditional breakfast). This hearty affair commonly includes mashed beans, sour cream, eggs, cheese, fried plantains, rice, plenty of warm fresh Salvadorian tortillas and brewed coffee. Huevos picados, scrambled eggs mixed with vegetables, are another favourite breakfast dish. Failing that stepping into one
of the pizzerias or Chinese restaurants in the
larger cities is not out of the question. |
|
Like all Central American cities, you don't have to look far in El Salvador before you'll stumble upon a panadería (pastry shop or bakery) overflowing with sweet biscuits and cakes sprinkled with lashings of sugar and filled with jam or cream. Similar to the Mexican empanada, an all time favourite is the pastelitos: small baked turnovers filled with custard or fruit preserves.
Drinking water from the mains is not recommended and in some more off the beaten track places, running water may also be scarce. It pays to have a water purification option with you, though when in small villages and towns you can generally pick up a gallon flask for roughly a dollar.
Besides the usual corn based drinks; horchata (pulverised sweetened rice milk); licuados (fresh fruit shakes sometimes with milk - batidos); and minutas (ice slushies flavoured with fruit syrups, horchata and a blend of spices); other beverages widely consumed in El Salvador and Central America are tamarind and fresh coconut juice. Typically, the coconuts are sold at roadside stalls and market venders throughout the country.
Tic tac and Torito are traditional alcoholic beverages distilled from sugar can, but by far the most popular alcoholic drink in El Salvador is cerveza (beer). Though nothing out of the ordinary, the most popular brands are pilsner and suprema. Regia and Bahia are two others also sold in the country.
Why not try these
for starters? |
Pupusas Quesillo
Con Loroco Y Salsa Roja Originating in El Salvador, this national favourite is similar to the corn tortilla, only thicker and stuffed with cheese, beans or meat. A special variation is the quesillo con loroco filling. Loroco means “Edible herb” in indigenous language and its unique pungently flavoured flowers are harvested and used extensively in the Salvadoran kitchen. Served together with salsa roja, a tasty tomato sauce, you can't really get more Salvadoran than this. |
Yuca Frita Con
Curtido This dish is very simply deep fried cassava root served with curtido: El Salvador's answer to sauerkraut. The cabbage salad, which is allowed to ferment in a light and fruity vinagre de piña (pineapple vinegar) is also traditionally served with pupusas. |
Atole de Elote With deep seated roots in Mayan culture, atoles are very popular beverages in not only El Salvador but the whole of Central America. Atole de elote is a deliciously, fresh flavoured corn based drink, often so thick it needs to be consumed with a spoon. For a truly traditional experience, ask for your atole to be served in a dried calabash gourd bowl. |
Pastel de Tres
Leches Believed to have originated in Nicaragua, this scrumptiously famous bakery product has not only taken Central America by storm, but has pudding lovers in the United States licking their lips as well. As the name suggests, the cake is soaked in three kinds of milk giving it an almost cheesecake like quality: delectably rich and sticky. |
Maria Luisa Another simple but mouth-watering delight from the panadería oven: layered sponge cake filled with local fruit jam, not only popular in El Salvador, but Colombia too. Perfect with a cup of freshly brewed coffee. |
Quesadilla
Salvadoreña Not to be confused with the Mexican snack of the same name, this sweet poundcake is traditionally flavoured with Salvadoran queso fresco:, a fresh, soft farmers cheese. It is intense, sweet, creamy and ever so slightly cheesy and definitely not for those counting calories |
San Salvador | Bicimania Boulvard Santa Elena Atrium plaza local 5 y 6 San Salvador Tel: (503) 2289-9636 website |
Detailed distance chart from our trip through El Salvador - May 2009 (km/alti) | ||||
altitude (in metres) in brackets | accomm.: | km |
total
km |
|
H= hotel / posada . C= camping / trailer park . B= beach camp | ||||
Anguiatu (Guatemala border, 738) | Paso de la Ceiba (848) | 1.5 |
1.5 |
|
Paso de la Ceiba | Metapan (484) | H |
11 |
13 |
Metapan | Texistepeque | 31 |
44 |
|
Texistepeque | Santa Ana (646) | H |
17 |
61 |
Santa Ana | PanAmericana entry (CA-1)(767) | 5 |
66 |
|
PanAmericana | El Congo (844) | 9 |
75 |
|
El Congo | Ciudad Arce (500) | 11 |
86 |
|
Ciudad Arce | turn-off to CA-7 (Apopa)(480) | 11 |
97 |
|
turn-off to CA-7 | Quezaltepeque (480) | H |
13 |
110 |
Quezaltepeque | Apopa turn-off (500) | 13 |
123 |
|
Apopa turn-off | San Martin (770) | H |
23 |
146 |
San Martin | Cojutepeque (845) | H |
14 |
160 |
Cojutepeque | Santo Domingo (670) | H |
10 |
170 |
Santo Domingo | turn-off to San Vicente (610) | 11 |
181 |
|
turn-off to San Vicente | turn-off to San Ildefonso (97) | 31 |
212 |
|
turn-off to San Ildefonso | turn-off to Nueva Grenada (526) | 16 |
228 |
|
turn-off to Nueva Grenada | El Triunfo (500) | H |
4 |
232 |
El Triunfo | end downhill (400) | 5 |
237 |
|
end downhill | climb (587) | 6 |
243 |
|
climb | San Miguel turn-off El Amatillo (190) | H |
17 |
260 |
San Miguel turn-off El Amatillo | turn-off to San Francisco Gotera | 18 |
278 |
|
turn-off to San Francisco Gotera | Santa Rosa de Jocoro (290) | H |
7 |
285 |
Santa Rosa de Jocoro | Santa Rosa de Lima (110) | H |
17 |
302 |
Santa Rosa de Lima | El Amatillo (Honduras border)(40) | H |
18 |
320 |