Area: 1,972,550 sq km
Population: 106,682,500
Population density: 55 per sq km
Capital: Mexico City
Passport Required? | |
---|---|
British | Yes |
Australian | Yes |
Canadian | Yes |
USA | Yes |
Other EU | Yes |
Visa Required? | |
British | No |
Australian | No |
Canadian | No |
USA | No |
Other EU | No |
Passports
Passport valid for at least six months after date of entry required by all nationals referred to in the chart above.
Passport Note
(a) Applicants for Blue Tourist Cards should have a valid passport, return/onward ticket and proof of financial means. (b) Tourist Cards must be kept by the visitor during the entire length of stay as they will have to be presented and stamped on leaving.
Visas
Not required by nationals referred to in the chart above, who can obtain a Blue Tourist Card for touristic purposes from their airline on direct flights, at port of entry, or from the Mexican Consulate before travelling, valid for 180 days.
Visa Note
(a) Nationals seeking to visit Mexico on business are advised to check with the consulate regarding visa requirements as they may need to apply for a Non Immigrant Business Visitor carnet (FM3). (b) Nationals not referred to in the chart above are advised to contact the embassy to check visa requirements.
Main (international) airports
By Water
There is a Usumacinta river crossing from Frontera Corozal, Chiapas to Bethel, in the Petén Department of Guatemala. Frontera Corozal is 167 km south-east of Palenque and can be reached by paved roads. The first 60 kilometres on Guatemalan side are unpaved. This is the shortest route between Palenque and Tikal / Flores.
Although it is not an international crossing, we do like to mention the ferry service from La Paz in Baja California and the mainland here. It is quite a significant crossing; without it, you'd be back pedalling the whole length of Baja.
Baja
Ferries ferry services from La Paz (Baja California) to
Topolabampo and Mazatlan (mainland Mexico). Ferry
TMC is a cheaper option. They also sail
from Pichilingue (La Paz port) to Mazatlan and Topolobampo.
By Rail
The Mexican government stopped subsidising intercity passenger services in 2000 and almost all long-distance passenger services were discontinued. There is no international train travel from Mexico to any of its neigbours.
For more on trains inside Mexico, check mexlist.com.
By Road
Main points of entry to/from the USA:
A list of all border crossings between Mexico and the US can be found here.
There are three main roads into Guatemala:
The Pan American Highway crosses from Ciudad Hidalgo to Ciudad Tecún Umán in Guatemalan province of San Marcos, crossing the Puente Rodolfo Robles bridge.
Further north, the Talisman bridge connects Cacahoatán in Mexico with El Carmen.
Even further north, there is the border crossing from Ciudad Cuauhtémoc to La Mesilla on the Guatemalan side.
Besides this, there is the river crossing into Guatemala, as mentioned under the 'By Water' section. This crossing cannot be done with a car, but bicycles and motorcycles can be transported across the river in small river boats.
The border crossings to Belize are at Subteniente López–Santa Elena, 14 km from Corozal Town in Belize and 11 km from Chetumal in Mexico; and at La Unión–Blue Creek, 54 km southwest of Orange Walk Town.
Cycling
in Mexico
It is very hard to generalise the driving conditions in Mexico, since it has such diverse environments
and is an enormously large country. But if it
were to be summarised, it would go something like
this: Cool starts in the morning while the air
is still fresh, the sun hasn't peaked over the
cliffs and Mexico is still waking up. By midday,
the roads are getting much busier. It dies again
for siesta in the mid afternoon only to see an
emergence of impatience in the late afternoon.
Everyone has somewhere to go and possibly a couple
of tequilas under the belt as well. Be warned,
Mexicans do drink and drive!
Truck drivers are by far the most courteous on Mexican roads and the best we have encountered to date on any roads anywhere we have travelled. Taxis and buses leave a lot to be desired. You'll meet with a warmth of friendliness: waving; tooting; peace signs; thumbs up and big smiles for your entire cycle journey.
The road surface is variable: from super smooth to washed away and very potholed, but the roadwork's department are doing their job by both widening and fixing up highways throughout the whole country and that's a big job. You should not pay too much attention to the newly placed green kilometre signs, since they are incredibly inaccurate. The older white kilometre markers are far more reliable. No matter how big or small, villages and towns are bordered by topes (speed humps) and they are not always clearly painted or marked, so beware. Military posts are a daily experience as well and have some interesting ways of bringing traffic to a stop: navigating your way over split tree trunks, old tractor tyres or 15cm thick ropes will be about the extent of you troubles: cyclists are rarely asked to pull over.
Apart from dual carriageways leading into larger cities and the cuoata (toll) roads, highways in Mexico have little or no shoulder to speak off. You'll get good at cycling on the white line if you plan a cycling trip here. The lead-up into city centres generally have service lanes, which are often poorly surfaced, but at least give you a break from the roar of all the trucks. Watch out for kamikaze bus and taxi drivers though. In general, traffic is very much centred around the townships and dies considerably as you head away from these urban havens.
Roads are diabolically busy on holidays so steer clear of these times if you can. Sundays are also another crazy day on the road. Wear bright colours and a helmet. And if you want reprieve from all the dodging and white line concentration, you can ride on the cuota (toll road) without charge though the cycling tends to be rather boring. Only real bonus is it gets you somewhere quick and you have the added luxury of a massive wide shoulder all to yourself. Enough space to cycle side by side: something that is almost impossible anywhere else in Mexico.
TIP: If you
use a map that doesn't have the altitudes on it,
you might be able to use the following:
So called microondas (microwave stations or radiomasts)
are generaly positioned on or near the highest
spot of that particular region. So if you see
one, it means that you are very close to: 1. the
top of the climb 2. about to go down or 3. at
the start of a plateau...
Cycle Central America – touring guide: a wonderfully detailed book researched and written by Ian Benford entailing a framework of routes for exploring southern Mexico, Guatemala, Belize and Honduras.
Tip: A little tip from Anna if you like to keep away from the main thoroughfares, is to visit the Secretaria de Comunicaciones y Transportes office in the capital city of each state. They have maps which detail all roads including dirt tracks and unpaved roads. She does mention that the process can be a little bureaucratic and the maps a little out of date, but also says it is well worth it, as they are far better than any other maps she has come across.
Useful links:
Baja
Ferries ferry services from La Paz (Baja California) to
Topolabampo and Mazatlan (mainland Mexico)
Ferry
TMC is an even better (and cheaper) option. They sail
from Pichilingue (La Paz) to Mazatlan and Topolobampo.
Volaris and Interjet are two low-cost airlines in Mexico
Best map for Baja California is without doubt
the one published by the AAA - the American Automobile Association. It has
all the distances (unfortunately in miles, Mexico
uses kilometers, but very accurate nevertheless)
and even the smallest of roads/tracks. Only downfall:
no elevations (except for the towns)
scale: 1:800,000
TIP: If you are a member of AAA or any of its affiliates (even European ones!), you can get all the maps you need for free at any AAA-shop!
Mexico Road Atlas de Carreterras 2005 / Guia Roji Road Atlas (Spiral-bound)
Probably the best atlas you can buy for Mexico.
Scale 1:1 000 000
Spiral bound, so you can rip things out you don't
need, without ruining the rest of the maps you
do need...
Available throughout Mexico
drinks and snacks | food: local markets; restaurants; and stores |
||||
water (mineral) |
2 litre 200ml 1 litre 600ml 2 litre 680g |
10 3 13 9 16-18 30 |
tortillas-large |
22 pieces 540g |
18 19 |
vege taco or quesodilla guacomole+chips cheese omelette+tortillas mexican donuts-churros vegetarian buffet pizza-eat in restaurant |
one serving one serving one serving 2 piece all-u-can-eat grande (large) |
6-12 20-30 25-35 1 65-75 115 |
|||
beer-local wine carafe / bottle |
330ml 1 litre / 750ml |
7-11 50 / 70 |
|||
tea coffee (cafe / bar) Nescafe instant coffee-ground |
25 bags per cup 100g 500g |
19 8 33 40 |
rice (white) pasta eggs tinned tomatoes |
kg |
11-14 3-5 12 5-6 |
milk yoghurt / curd cheese Magnum icecream |
1 litre 1 kg kg each |
11 |
potatoes onions tomatoes green beans |
kg kg kg kg |
15 10 12-16 13 |
chips tostadas salsa salted peanuts |
200g pack 40 pieces 210g 900g |
22 18 5-6 32 |
apples oranges bananas avocados |
kg kg kg each |
15 10 10-12 14-18 |
dates - fresh cornflakes chocolate biscuits-plain biscuits-chocolate |
kg 375g pack 350g block 200g pack 200g pack |
24 32 28 6 12 |
pineapple (can) oil (corn) |
840g can 500ml |
19 11-13 |
peanut paste jam honey - fresh per litre |
340g jar 500g jar 500ml = 500g |
32 19 12 |
|||
accommodation | personal | ||||
budget city hostel budget hotel |
75+ per dorm bed 180+ double with ensuite |
deodorant - roll-on |
50ml 90g bar 400ml each 100ml 2 pack each |
20-24 3 35 8-12 14 20 4-5 |
|
camping wild camping |
25 pesos per person - 280 pesos
for a site in a tourist spot |
||||
internet | 10-20 per hour |
A couple of extra tips:
Bargaining is acceptable at markets if buying in bulk or purchasing products without a marked price, except for food. Generally, most goods have a pricetag or are scanned in on the computerised cash register. When purchasing everday goods, it is uncommon to feel as though you are getting ripped off in Mexico: vendors and shop owners are extremely honest.
Tipping in
restaurants and cafes is pretty well expected
in Mexico, though not at all compulsory. In tourist
areas, there will quite often be ATV tax added
above the price on the menu, but everywhere else,
what you see is what you pay. If the service is
good, round your bill off or tip up to 10%.
In supermarkets, you will notice lots
fo school children packing shopping bags at the
cash registers, or even offering to carry your
groceries out to your car. They are not on the
payroll and volunteer their services as a way
to earn a bit of extra pocket money. For packing
the shopping bag, a bit of loose change is ample
and they are very grateful for as little as one
or two pesos. Taking the shopping to the car will
set you back about 5 pesos and if you want them
to walk your shopping back home form the local
mercado in small village, it will cost you 10
pesos.
Taxis are generally inexpensive and a quick and convenient way to travel from A to B around the town or even in the immediate area. They only cost 5-10 pesos per trip and tipping is not expected at all.
Internet Facilities in Mexico
Internet cafes can be found all over Mexico
and nearly every town you'll pass through will have
some form of world wide web facility. In 2009, the standard
rate is 10 pesos per hour, but in smaller off the beaten
track places it could be as low as 8 pesos or as high
as 20 pesos in a cafe in a touristy region. As a rule,
you wont find any locals in the latter, so if you want
to save yourself some cash, head into the back streets
as there is bound to be internet access for the towns
residents. Be warned though, they are raucous affairs,
with music or video game soundtracks blaring from each
and every speaker in the house. It truly is a free for
all in the noise department.
Hooking up to an unsecured wifi point is rare in Mexico as most connections are security-enabled and you'll need a code. Free wifi is available in some hotels, restaurants and bars in the more popular destinations for guests only, but outside of these areas you'll have to visit the local internet café for any surfing. The quality and speed varies considerably from establishment to establishment.
Banking
Banamex is a leading Mexican bank and has branches in even the
smallest of towns. ATM's accept all major card types
and are in Spanish and English.
Accommodation in Mexico is very hit and miss, though finding it is relatively easy, even in the smaller townships. Officially, all establishments must display their rates clearly for potential guests, though these prices are more often than not, the hiked-up high season price. Unless you are there during one of the festival periods, you will never have to pay this amount. Furthermore, if there is competition around, haggling on the price will not be frowned upon.
Hotels, Posadas and Hostels
In 2009, the average cost of a budget double room was
200 pesos. In some towns, this would get you a hot shower,
cable television, free wifi and an air conditioner in
a pleasantly clean environment. In others, you'll find
yourself looking round your bare-basic cement jail in
horror, wondering just how someone could expect such
a price tag for such a hovel. Though it must be said
that even in the grottiest of unkempt boxes, the bed
linen and towels are usually clean. You'll also be supplied
with a little bar of soap and toilet paper.
A slightly cheaper option is to head to a Posada. You will most likely save yourself a few pesos, but the standard is generally lower as well and if you have ever been to SE Asia, this in relation to the price will appear outrageously expensive. Considering the average cost of living in Mexico, 150-200 pesos is a hefty sum to pay for bottom of the range accommodation.
If you are travelling with more than two persons, then Hostels work out more expensive than getting your own private room in a hotel, though it has to be said that these spots have the added bonus of being able to meet other travellers and more often than not have use of a kitchen and refrigerator.
Official Campgrounds, Camping
Wild and Beach Restaurants
Baja California:
Since the hotels are not particularly good value on
Baja and hostels are pretty well non-existent, pitching
the tent will definitely be your best option. Camping
wild with nothing else but you and your Baja cultured
cacti garden is, without a doubt, one of the most memorable
star gazing experiences you’ll ever have. For
safety purposes, it is important to pull well away from
the road and in a position that is completely out of
sight. This is pretty standard wild camping practice
wherever you may be in the world and not just characteristic
of Baja. Though typically depictive is the necessity
to scout for thorns, goat-head prickles and even broken
glass. Check your off road path thoroughly before you
wheel your bike in. It can really make or break your
trip.
By and large, the bigger towns have at least one campground facility, though amenities and price vary considerably. Don’t be scared to barter the price down. You can also ask to pitch the tent in small villages, at ranches and truck stops throughout the desert stretches. Locals rarely refuse you a patch of ground to spend the night. Another option is to head to the beach, though this generally means travelling very slowly down boggy sand tracks until you reach your paradise. Unless you are travelling in a fairly decent sized group, then it is recommended to stick to the better-known surf beaches. Firstly, there are people around for obvious safety reasons and should you need any extra supplies, someone has a car to go and get it. Remember to take everything with you, including enough water not only for drinking but cooking and washing as well.
In 2009, official camp spots range from 50 pesos on a bare-basics beach in Bahia Concepcion to 200 pesos per person per night in a dusty campground in Cabo San Lucas. On average, expect to pay around 120 pesos or the equivalent in US dollars, which are accepted as widely as pesos everywhere on the peninsula. Most facilities will include a hot shower, a welcomed luxury after a few nights of free-camping in the middle of no-where.
Mainland Mexico:
Compared to Baja, mainland Mexico is a step up on the
accommodation front and you'll often have the choice
between staying in a hotel or camping in a RV Trailer
park. Though the price of pitching your tent will only
be marginally cheaper. Don't expect anything but a gravel
lot. Tables and chairs are pretty much out of the question.
Consider grass an added bonus as is a bit of shade from
a few trees. That's why it is better, along the Pacific
Coast in any case, to ask a restaurant owners to let
you pitch the tent or sleep in one of their hammocks
under a palapa, right on the beach. You'll pay no more
than 25 pesos per person in most places. That will include
light, toilet and often a cold shower as well. For extra
comfort, don't forget to pack the repellent and/or mosi-coils.
Some National Parks also offer areas for camping, but by far the most well known spots with great opportunities to pitch the tent are Sonora, Chihuahua, Coahuila, Campeche and Chiapas.
Camping wild can be achieved, though it is a little harder to find the perfect spot. Most appropriate areas are either farmland or too out in the open. For obvious security reasons, it pays to remain unseen. Larger groups can get away with camping together on the beach front or even close to some of the rivers.
For more details about camping facilities or hotels throughout Mexico, see the notes on our personal distances chart on this page.
Acommodation we used while in Mexico (November 2008 - May 2009): (prices based on two people sharing) | ||||
Star system explained: from 0 to ***** where 0 is a total disaster and ***** is luxurious (and out of our price range) | ||||
City / town: | Name accommodation: | Our experience: | Price: | Stars: |
Acaponeta | Casablanca Hotel | bit cramped, but in the city centre | MXN 187 | ** |
Acapulco | Hotel Del Angel | great setting, spotless room | MXN 250 | **** |
Cabo San Lucas | Club Cabo Inn (camping) | mud pitch, exuberant prices, WiFi | MXN 270 | ½ |
Caleta de Campos | Beach camp | quiet little beach | MXN 50 | ** |
Cerro de Ortega | Police Station | set up camp inside police station | MXN -- | *½ |
Chiapa de Corzo | Posada Lenin | quaint, rustic hostel | MXN 200 | ** |
Cintalada | Hotel Marlene | hot and tiny box without a window | MXN 240 | * |
Col. Vicente Guerrero | Meson de Don Pepe campsite | dump, including the bathrooms | MXN 70 | 0 |
Cuajinicuilapa | Hotel Marin | simple, clean and tidy | MXN 200 | **½ |
El Descanso | Good Waves campground | makeshift campsite | MXN 60 | ½ |
El Tuito | Hotel Don Juan | huge room, clean and tidy | MXN 200 | *** |
Esquinapa | Hotel Gratos | genuinly friendly | MXN 150 | **½ |
Guacamayas | Hotel Rosita | basic, but cheap | MXN 110 | ** |
Guerreo Negro | Malarrino Hotel campground | mud pitch, WiFi | MXN 144 | ½ |
Juchitan de Zaragoza | Hotel Las Brisas | sweatbox, no windows, not clean | MXN 27 | ½ |
La Paz | Casa Blanca Trailer Park | sandy, but well kept, WiFi | MXN 198 | **½ |
Las Varas | Hotel Lupita | stay away | MXN 180 | 0 |
Loreto | Loreto Shores RV | decent pitch, WiFi & guest room | MXN 150 | **½ |
Los Barriles | Martin Verdugo's Beach Resort | good campsite, very neat | MXN 155 | ***½ |
Manzanillo | Hotel Azteca Centro | sweat box | MXN 250 | *½ |
Marquelia | Hotel Grecia | great deal, aircon, very friendly | MXN 200 | ***½ |
Maruata | Beach camp | listening to the waves | MXN 50 | ** |
Mazatlan | Hotel Lerma | simple, but adequate room | MXN 180 | *** |
Melaque | Posada Clemens | should have looked further | MXN 250 | ½ |
Misol Ha | Misol Ha bungalows | tourist trap | MXN 266 | * |
Mulegé | Villa Maria Isabella campground | totally neglected | MXN 160 | ½ |
Niltepec | Hotel Oasssis | greedy owner, half decent room | MXN 250 | ½ |
Ocosingo | Hospedaje La Selva | very small room, very small price | MXN 120 | *½ |
Palenque | Posada Los Angeles | clean, modern and friendly | MXN 150 | *** |
Papanoa | Beach camp Ojo de Agua | most beautiful setting | MXN -- | *** |
Playa Buenaventura | Playa Buenaventura camp | ok, they had a restaurant... | MXN 100 | ½ |
Playa San Pedrito | Playa San Pedrito surf camp | no facilities, but nice vibe | MXN -- | ** |
Puerto Escondido | Hostal Puerto Escondido | little box, but cheapest in town | MXN 140 | *½ |
Puerto Vallarte | Hotel Ana Liz | decent hotel, but was it worth... | MXN 350 | ** |
Punta Perula | RV Park Las Palmas | friendly bunch, quite allright | MXN 150 | **½ |
Salina Cruz | Posada San José | big cement box, rather old | MXN 150 | * |
San Agustin | Trailer Park | bucket shower, cacti field | MXN 50 | ½ |
San Blas | Hotel Morelos | home away from home | MXN 180 | ***½ |
San Blas | Trailer Park Los Cocos | sand flies & terrible facilities | MXN 150 | ½ |
San Cristóbal dl Casas | Posada Mexico (second building) | nice room, but no facilities | MXN 260 | * |
San Cristóbal dl Casas | Posada Rosalito | great appartment ! | MXN 160 | **** |
San Ignacio | Rice and Beans campground | friendly folks | MXN 100 | * |
San Jeronimo | Hotel El Coloso | dismal hovel | MXN 160 | ½ |
San José del Progreso | Hotel Los Cactus | motel style tiny room, Sky tv | MXN 200 | ** |
San Marcos | Hotel El Castillo | cartboard pillows, cement box | MXN 200 | * |
San Pedro Pochutla | Hotel Olimpia | pretty tiny room | MXN 220 | ** |
San Pedro Tapanatepec | Hotel La Mission | pretty groovy, hammocks | MXN 250 | **½ |
Santa Rosalía | Las Palmas RV | what to say... | MXN 100 | 0 |
Santiago Astata | Hotel Paris | quite alright, clean | MXN 200 | **½ |
Santiago Ixcuintla | Motel Lerma | tiny room, too big a price | MXN 200 | *½ |
Santo Thomás | El Palomar campground | quite neglected really | MXN 120 | * |
Sayulita | Camping El Palmar | next to the beach, ok | MXN 140 | *½ |
Vizcaíno | Kadekaman RV park | at least they had a hot shower | MXN 200 | ½ |
Zihuatenejo | Hotel Bocana | big room, aircon, WiFi, clean | MXN 200 | **** |
Mexican cuisine has been styled with considerable influence from Spain. It is known for its use of spices like cumin, turmeric, cloves and cinnamon and of course the famous chilli pepper. Tacos are the most widely consumed fast food and found everywhere. They are a soft tortilla filled with whatever specialty the vendor has on offer. Those hardened taco shells you see lining the supermarket shelves Europe and Australia are typically an invention of the western world and more like a bent tostada than anything else.
Outside of the tourist cities, vegetarians are going to have a hard time in Mexico, unless of course, you don't mind a continual diet of quesodillas, (grilled tacos filled with cheese); guacamole, (avocado dip normally served with tortilla chips) omelettes or steamed elote (corn on the cob).
Self catering is definitely the way to go, if you don't want to get bored and visiting the local market (mercado) could be the highlight of your day. Always colourful and vibrantly buzzing with Mexicans buying their daily produce. You can get everything here from your perishables to all the goods you find at the grocery store too. Fruit and vegetables are in abundant supply, fresh, extremely good quality and generally cheap. Though, it does pay to wash your purchases, as pesticides are used extensively by Mexican farmers.
Meat is a staple in Mexico and seafood devoured by the boat load. In the bigger shopping centres, they dedicate a full refrigeration unit to manteca de cerdo (pork fat) which presents the next problem: the traditional Mexican kitchen just loves using lard.
VEGETARIAN TALK - Spanish
Soy vegetariano/a = I am vegetarian m/f
No como...ni... = I don't eat...nor...
Yo como...y... = I eat...and...
No quiero...o... = I don't
want...or...
carne = meat
cerdo or puerco = pork
pollo [poh-yo] = chicken
pescado = fish
huevos = eggs
leche = milk
lácteos = milk products
queso = cheese
verdura = vegetables
fruta (fresca) = (fresh)
fruit
Quiero... = I want...
Quisiera un plato que lleve... =
I want a dish containing ...
par llevar = takeaway
por favor = please
gracias = thank you
de nada = you're welcome
Soups are without a doubt made with meat stock, as it is impossible to find vegetable bouillon anywhere in the country Be warned now, even when the packaging says tomato stock cube, it will still contain chicken. In the larger supermarkets you can take your pick these days from three MSG laced varieties of Knorr packet soups: cream of corn, mushroom or vegetable. Even the simple pinto bean, refried or otherwise, is not vegetarian friendly. The only brand on the market that is not cooked with Manteca de cerdo (pork fat) is La Sierra. Luckily, this product easily found throughout the country.
Many guide books warn about tortillas being made with lard as well, but that is rare these days. Even the tortilla kitchen in the supermarket uses vegetable oil (Aciete vegetal) and if in doubt, buy a pre-packeted variety of which their are numerous. Tamales (filled corn shell steamed in the corn husk) are also out of the question as they quite often contain mince meat and are almost certainly prepared with lard.
So, by the time you make it to a big city, you'll really be hanging out for a vegetarian buffet. HappyCow has enough listings for you to give a sigh of relief. Pizza restaurants are also everywhere in the bigger towns and surprisingly enough, the Mexicans know how to make a pretty good version of that Italian favourite. The 100% Natural restaurant chain is situated mostly in big cities throughout Mexico. They are slightly upmarket and pretty pricey for what is just average food. Though the menu is not 100% vegetarian they have a variety of choices for non-meat eaters. A soya burger or tofu enchiladas meal will set you back around 60 pesos.
As far as the cyclist is concerned, there are generally plenty of shopping stops along or just off the major highways on the mainland, though you'll only really find decent sized supermarkets in decent sized towns. Along the Pacific coast, the 250 kilometre stretch between San Juan De Alima and Caleta de Campos has very little on offer as far as groceries are concerned. There is a small store at Tizuapan, but produce can be stale or even worse, growing mould. A moving market runs this strip and you may be lucky enough to catch it as you ride through.
Being so remote, Baja is somewhat different, though little cause for concern: small abarrotes and truck stops line the route. They suffice for basics but be warned, fresh produce is not always fresh, which stands to reason and it does pay to check the used by dates on the canned products. Ensenada has major shopping centres, but will be the last you see until the giant Super Ley on the southbound outskirts of Cuidad Constitucion. Both El Rosario and Guerrero Negro have decent sized supermarkets. On the desert (Valle de los Cirios) stretch in between, the best shopping is at Cataviña and Punta Prieta also has a mini mini-super with just enough goodies to whip up a basic evening meal.
Besides the humble tortilla, Mexicans are quite partial to bread and cakes too. There is usually one bakery (Pandareria) in each town, but if not then you'll catch women with wide wicker baskets on stands at the street corner selling all sorts of delicious looking snacks for 3-4 pesos per piece. Trouble is, everything looks way better than it actually tastes. The bread rolls (bolitta) are definitely delicious, but only on the day of baking. After that they dry up and most of the cakes and cookies will have you grabbing for the water bottle after just one bite.
While the tap water is supposedly potable, it is not generally consumed by Mexicans and therefore a good sign that you shouldn't either. Bottled water is available everywhere and dirt cheap. A five litre flagon can go for as little as 16 pesos, whereas 1.5 litre of the same brand will cost from 10 pesos upwards. Many hotels will have a communal water dispenser in the lobby or on each floor for guests to use and some places will even give you a complimentary bottle on arrival. Cleaning your teeth with the tap water is not likely to hurt you, however you may not wish to continue doing so once you have read a little about how much sewerage gets pumped daily into Mexico's rivers and oceans.
When cycling through Mexico and in particular Baja, keep yourself well stocked with water: in the desert and more remote mountain regions you’ll need it. As well as the usual gallon bottles, some of the bigger towns have refill stations and for 20 cents you can fill your empty bottle with fresh drinking water. In the event of desperation, there is plenty of highway traffic during the day to help you out. Waving an empty bottle from the side of the road will signal that you either need water or gasoline.
Beer and tequila are the Mexicans poison and every
town, no matter how small has a least one, if not
several, points of sale. All the brands you would
associate with Mexico are available: Sol, Corona,
Estrelle and Pacifco to name a few. The only boutique
beers on the market are Negra Modelo, which is a deliciously
flavoursome dark beer and Bohemia, who brew a similarly
tempting blond and black variety. At Christmas time
some companies will bring out a festive beer which
is also definitely worth trying. Cans have no deposit
system, but many bottled beers do. By and large, you
can return them for your refund at the place of purchase;
or take them to the local deposito.
Tequila is found overall, just like beer and there
are many different types, flavours, and grades. Price
ranges with quality and generally will also reflect
the degree of hang-over.
On a non-alcoholic level, Mexico has great thirst-quenching pick-me-ups found in little shops purely dedicated to serving freshly made drinks or at the local market.: Licuados de fruta (Fruit smoothies and milkshakes) are a definite favourite and the combinations are deliciously limitless. Horchata is a traditional beverage originally prepared with the chufa nut, but now more commonly made with rice. The origins of this sweet, milky drink are said to have stemmed from Egypt. Mexican street vendors flavour it with cinnamon, sugar and a hint of lime.
Why not try these for starters?
Quesadillas
Simple but scrumptious: cheese filled tortillas
grilled until cheese is runny hot and the tortillas
golden brown.
Guacamole Y Totopos
A zesty lemon avocado dip spiced up with garlic,
onion and green serrano chile served with crunchy
totopos (fried tortilla slices).
Ensalada de Nopalitos [Cactus Salad]
A salad of diced prickly pear, red onion and coriander
tossed in a peppery queso fresco (crumbly soft
white cheese) vinaigrette
Empanadas
North of Mexico City, in the state of Hidalgo,
empanadas, or pastes as they are locally known
are particularly famous, tracing their origins
from the Cornish pasties imported by British miners
in the region. These seasoned sweet potato, pumpkin
or cheese filled pastry turnovers, baked golden
brown, make an excellent snack night or day and
can be easily found in bakeries and in local stores. Wherever you are in Mexico, the
empanada is a common treat, but may also be filled
with fruit and sprinkled with sugar, which makes
a delicious combination with a hot cup of coffee.
Plantino Muffins
Y Dulce De Leche
Big moist banana muffins served with a hot caramel
candy sauce. Almost a meal in itself.
Arroz Con Leche
The Mexican all time favourite: sweet milk rice
pudding scented with cinnamon and lemon.
Margarita
Your visit to Mexico will not be forgotten after
you have sampled this national cocktail. Tequila,
Cointreau and lashings of lime juice shaken over
ice and served in a salt rimmed glass. Perfect
for any evening sunset under the palapa on a secluded
village beach.
Churros Y Champurradois
Whether straight or curly, these crunchy sugary
donuts are even more delectable with a cup of
warm, thick Mexican style hot chocolate flavoured
with vanilla bean. To liven up the day a little,
champurradois may also be made with dash of alcohol.
Detailed distance chart from our trip through Mexico December 2008 - April 2009 (km/alti) | ||||
altitude (in metres) in brackets | accomm.: | km |
total
km |
|
H= hotel / posada . C= camping / trailer park . B= beach camp | ||||
San Ysidro (USA) | Rosarito (via 1D) | H/C |
39 |
39 |
Rosarito | La Mision | 42 |
81 |
|
La Mision | Ensenada | H/C |
46 |
127 |
Ensenada | Santo Tomas | C |
42 |
169 |
Santo Tomas | top pass (466 mtr) | 12 |
181 |
|
pass | Colonet | 66 |
247 |
|
Colonet | Colonia Vicente Guerrero | C |
22 |
269 |
Colonia Vicente Guerrero | Lazaro Cardenas | 27 |
296 |
|
Lazaro Cardenas | El Rosario | H/C |
56 |
352 |
El Rosario | top pass (616 mtr) | 35 |
387 |
|
top | San Agustin | C |
52 |
439 |
San Agustin | Cataviña | C |
35 |
474 |
Cataviña | Rancho San Martin (748) | 16 |
490 |
|
Rancho SM | top pass (898) | 4 |
494 |
|
pass | Rancho Chapala (675) | 39 |
533 |
|
Rancho Chapala | Punto Prieto (255) | 63 |
596 |
|
Punto Prieto | Rosarito (153) | 39 |
635 |
|
Rosarito | Guerrero Negro | H/C |
83 |
718 |
Guerrero Negro | Vizcaino | H/C |
75 |
793 |
Vizcaino | San Ignacio | H/C |
70 |
863 |
San Ignacio | Cuesta del Inferno | 57 |
920 |
|
Cuesta del Inferno | Santa Rosalia | H/C |
18 |
938 |
Santa Rosalia | San Lucas | 11 |
949 |
|
San Lucas | Mulegé | H/C |
51 |
1000 |
Mulegé | Playa Buenaventura | C/B |
39 |
1039 |
Playa Buenaventura | Loreto | H/C |
96 |
1135 |
Loreto | Lugui | C |
40 |
1175 |
Lugui | top (429) | 6 |
1181 |
|
top | microwave station | 6 |
1187 |
|
microwave station | start downhill | 26 |
1213 |
|
start downhill | Ciudad Insurgentes | H |
35 |
1248 |
Ciudad Insurgentes | Ciudad Constitución | H/C |
26 |
1274 |
Ciudad Constitución | Santa Rita | 53 |
1327 |
|
Santa Rita | Las Pocitas | 44 |
1361 |
|
Las Pocitas | El Cien | 11 |
1372 |
|
El Cien | El Centenario | H |
85 |
1457 |
El Centenario | La Paz | H/C |
11 |
1468 |
La Paz | Todos Santos | H/B |
85 |
85 |
Todos Santos | Cabo San Lucas | H/C |
82 |
167 |
Cabo San Lucas | San José del Cabo | H |
29 |
196 |
San José del Cabo | Los Barriles | H/C |
79 |
275 |
Los Barriles | El Triunfo | 54 |
329 |
|
El Triunfo | La Paz | H/C |
58 |
387 |
La Paz | Pichilingue (ferry to Mazatlan) | 26 |
413 |
|
Mazatlan (old town) | sign Bienvenidos Mazatlan | 12 |
12 |
|
Bienvenidos sign | Villa Union | 12 |
24 |
|
Villa Union | Rosario | H |
45 |
69 |
Rosario | Escuinapa | H |
23 |
92 |
Escuinapa | Acaponeta turn-off | 64 |
156 |
|
Acaponeta t.o. | Acaponeta | H |
3 |
159 |
Acaponeta | Rosamorada | 53 |
212 |
|
Rosamorada | Santiago Ixcuintla turn-off | 34 |
246 |
|
turn-off | Santiago Ixcuintla | H |
8 |
254 |
Santiago Ixcuintla | San Blas | H/C |
45 |
299 |
San Blas | Las Varas | H |
70 |
70 |
Las Varas | Rincon de Guayabitos | H |
23 |
93 |
Rincon de Guayabitos | Sayulita | H/C |
52 |
146 |
Sayulita | top climb (138) | 10 |
156 |
|
Top climb | Puerto Vallarta | H |
38 |
194 |
Puerto Vallarta | start climb (after Mismaloya) | 17 |
211 |
|
Start climb | top climb (734) | 22 |
233 |
|
Top climb | El Tuito (598) | H |
6 |
239 |
El Tuito | end downhill (100) | 22 |
261 |
|
end downhill | Tomatlan turn-off | 21 |
282 |
|
Tomatlan turn-off | Campo Acosta (28) | H |
27 |
309 |
Campo Acosta | Punta Perula trun-off | H/C |
28 |
337 |
Punta Perula turn-off | Agua Caliente | 42 |
379 |
|
Agua Caliente | start climb | 17 |
396 |
|
Start climb | top climb (264) | 8 |
404 |
|
Top climb | San Patricio Melaque | H/C |
8 |
412 |
San Patricio Melaque | Cihuatlan | H |
17 |
17 |
Cihuatlan | Miramar | H |
27 |
44 |
Miramar | Manzanillo | H |
20 |
64 |
Manzanillo | Cuyutlan | H |
34 |
98 |
Cuyutlan | Tecoman | H |
27 |
125 |
Tecoman | Cerro de Ortega | 26 |
151 |
|
Cerro de Ortega | San Juan de Alima | H/C/B |
25 |
176 |
San Juan de Alima | Maruata | B |
63 |
239 |
Maruata | Tizupan | 45 |
284 |
|
Tizupan | Hua Hua | B |
23 |
307 |
Hua Hua | Caleta de Campos | H/B |
39 |
346 |
Caleta de Campos | Chiquapan | B |
20 |
366 |
Chiquapan | La Mira | 36 |
402 |
|
La Mira | Lazaro Cardenas turn-off | 13 |
415 |
|
Lazaro Cardenas turn-off | Guacamayas | H |
2 |
417 |
Guacamayas | Petacalco | H |
20 |
437 |
Petacalco | Zihuatanejo | H/C |
93 |
530 |
Zihuatanejo | San Jeronimito | H |
27 |
27 |
San Jeronimito | Petatlan | H |
10 |
37 |
Petatlan | Papanoa | H/B |
44 |
81 |
Papanoa | San Luis de Loma | H |
24 |
105 |
San Luis de Loma | Tecpan turn-off (start cuota) | 27 |
132 |
|
Tecpan turn-off (start cuota) | San Jeronimo | H |
23 |
155 |
San Jeronimo | Coyuca | H |
50 |
205 |
Coyuca | Bajos de Ejido | 15 |
220 |
|
Bajos de Ejido | Acapulco Centro | H |
15 |
235 |
Acapulco Centro | Ruta Enscenica top climb (256) | 13 |
13 |
|
Ruta Enscenica top | Barra Vieja | H/B |
34 |
47 |
Barra Vieja | back on 200 | 11 |
58 |
|
200 turn-off | San Marcos | H |
24 |
82 |
San Marcos | Las Vigas | H |
22 |
104 |
Las Vigas | Cruz Grande | H |
17 |
121 |
Cruz Grande | Copala | H |
21 |
142 |
Copala | Marquelia | H |
20 |
162 |
Marquelia | Juchitan (158) | H |
21 |
183 |
Juchitan | San Juan de los Llanos (38) | H |
17 |
200 |
San Juan de los Llanos | Cuajinicuilapa (73) | H |
27 |
227 |
Cuajinicuilapa | turn-off 125 (240) | 46 |
273 |
|
turn-off 125 | Pinotepa Nacional (200) | H |
6 |
279 |
Pinotepa Nacional | Santiago Jamiltepec (487) | H |
32 |
311 |
Santiago Jamiltepec | San José del Progreso (25) | H |
30 |
341 |
San José del Progreso | Santa Rosa de Lima | H |
10 |
351 |
Santa Rosa de Lima | Rio Grande | H |
23 |
374 |
Rio Grande | Puerto Escondido | H/C |
52 |
426 |
Puerto Escondido | turn-off Mazunte/Zipolite | 58 |
58 |
|
turn-off Mazunte/Zipolite | San Pedro Pochutla | H |
23 |
71 |
San Pedro Pochutla | turn-off Airport | 30 |
101 |
|
turn-off Airport | turn-off Santa Cruz Huatulco | 12 |
113 |
|
turn-off Santa Cruz Huatulco | Copalita | H |
13 |
126 |
Copalita | Coyul | 38 |
164 |
|
Coyul | Santiago Astata (60) | H |
20 |
184 |
Santiago Astata | Morro Mazatan | H |
46 |
230 |
Morro Mazatan | turn-off cuota Tehuantepec | 15 |
245 |
|
turn-off cuota Tehuantepec | Salina Cruz | H |
13 |
258 |
Salina Cruz | Santo Domingo Tehuantepec | H |
16 |
274 |
Santo Domingo Tehuantepec | Juchitan de Zaragoza | H |
27 |
27 |
Juchitan de Zaragoza | La Ventosa | 16 |
43 |
|
La Ventosa | Niltepec | H |
36 |
79 |
Niltepec | Zanatepec | H |
31 |
110 |
Zanatepec | Pascual Fuentes | H |
11 |
121 |
Pascual Fuentes | San Pedro Tapanatepec (35) | H |
12 |
133 |
San Pedro Tapanatepec | turn-off to Arriaga / Tapachula | 1 |
134 |
|
turn-off Arriaga/Tapachula | top climb / continental divide (752) | 25 |
159 |
|
top climb / continental divide | Hospedeja near Rosendo Salazar (720) | H |
8 |
167 |
Hospedeja | turn-off to Arriaga | 24 |
191 |
|
turn-off to Arriaga | Cintalapa (525) | H/C |
21 |
212 |
Cintalapa | turn-off to Jiquipilas 1 | 7 |
219 |
|
turn-off to Jiquilipas 1 | turn-off to Jiquilipas 2 | 3 |
222 |
|
turn-off to Jiquilipas 2 | start climb (500) | 10 |
232 |
|
start climb | top climb (742) | 7 |
239 |
|
top climb | Ocozocoautla turn-off (772) | 19 |
258 |
|
Ocozocoautla turn-off | Berriozabal turn-off (1010) | 10 |
268 |
|
Berriozabal turn-off | Tuxtla Gutierrez centro (550) | H |
26 |
294 |
Tuxtla Gutierrez centro | turn-off Chiapa de Corzo (440) | 11 |
305 |
|
turn-off Chiapa de Corzo | Chiapa de Corzo centro (450) | H |
3 |
308 |
Chiapa de Corzo centro | entrance quota (440) | 3 |
311 |
|
entrance quota / start climb (440) | top climb (2241) | 42 |
353 |
|
top climb | San Cristóbal de las Casas (2106) | H |
8 |
361 |
San Cristóbal de las Casas | turn-off Comitan | 13 |
13 |
|
turn-off Comitan | top climb (2359) | 3 |
16 |
|
top climb | Huixtan (1975) | 17 |
33 |
|
Huixtan | Oxchuc (1901) | 18 |
51 |
|
Oxchuc | Cuxulja (1264) | 26 |
77 |
|
Cuxulja | start downhill (1233) | 13 |
90 |
|
start downhill | Ocosingo (920) | H |
5 |
95 |
Ocosingo | Temó (947) | 21 |
116 |
|
Temó | start downhill (1033) | 13 |
129 |
|
start downhill | bridge / lowest point (401) | 19 |
148 |
|
bridge / lowest point | turn-off Agua Azul (530) | 6 |
154 |
|
turn-off Agua Azul | turn-off Misol Ha (360) | H/C |
40 |
194 |
turn-off Misol Ha | start downhill (410) | 6 |
200 |
|
start downhill | turn-off road 307 to Benemerito (210) | 5 |
205 |
|
turn-off road 307 to Benemerito | Palenque (100) | H/C |
9 |
214 |
Palenque | turn-off to Benemerito | 10 |
10 |
|
turn-off to Benemerito | turn-off to Chamcala (170) | 34 |
44 |
|
turn-off to Chamcala | Ricardo Flores Magon (210) | H |
21 |
65 |
Ricardo Flores Magon | 11 de Julio (185) | H |
7 |
72 |
11 de Julio | Nuevo Guerrero (268) | 31 |
103 |
|
Nuevo Guerrero | Tres Lagunas (400) | H |
24 |
127 |
Tres Lagunas | San Javier (450) | 7 |
134 |
|
San Javier | turn-off to Frontera Corozal (250) | 15 |
149 |
|
turn-off to Frontera Corozal | Frontera Corozal (border, 200) | H |
18 |
167 |