Area: 75,517 sq km
Population: 3,309,679
Population density: 43 per sq km
Capital: Panama City
Passport Required? | |
---|---|
British | Yes |
Australian | Yes |
Canadian | Yes |
USA | Yes |
Other EU | Yes |
Visa Required? | |
British | No |
Australian | No/1 |
Canadian | No/1 |
USA | No/1 |
Other EU | No/2 |
Cycling in Panama The Pan American is a mixed bag in Panama. Some sections are immaculately paved with a wide smooth shoulder for total cycling bliss. Other parts however, are like a civil war took place on the tarmac, or more often than not concrete block slabs. Nonexistent shoulders or safety areas filled with vehicle debris, gravel or sand prevent you from keeping out of the line of fire from heavy traffic. In most of the country, traffic is friendly and respectful, but as you draw nearer to Panama City, aggression takes over and you'll more than likely find yourself pushed from the road on at least one occasion. Road signage is a sponsored affair in Panama and therefore the emphasis lies more on the advertising than giving you relevant distance or directional information. It can therefore be contradictory, so you need to use your common sense. Street signs are also pretty well absent in towns and cities, which makes navigation fairly complex. Even locals don't know the names of some streets. Technically, pedestrians and
cyclists are not permitted to cross the Puente
de las Americas into Panama City and you will
be stopped by police before you get close to the
foot of the bridge. The reason behind this is
that too many people in the past, in dire financial
difficulty have threatened to jump, unless of
course their debts are cleared. The police tend
to take a more lenient view of the rule with loaded
cycle tourers and if you ask nicely, you'll probably
get a motorcycle escort across the bridge. Other
reports are of them stopping a truck and loading
bikes and cyclists in for the 2 kilometre journey.
In any case, they probably figure that someone
brave enough to ride a fully loaded bicycle through
Panama, let alone Central America, is not likely
to end their life just yet. |
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National Geographic Waterproof |
Panama Map Waterproof |
drinks and snacks | food: local markets; restaurants; and stores |
||||
water (drinking) |
1.5 litre |
0.75 2.45 0.99 0.27 0.60 1.60 |
bread loaf-white |
430g 530g 250g large |
1.12 1.55 1.05 0.55 |
papas (fried chips) Chinese restaurant vegetarian buffet falafel or houmous-rest vegetarian pizza |
one serving one serving per portion entree portion large |
0.60-1.00 2.50+ 0.50 3.00+ 12.00+ |
|||
beer-local wine- bottle wine- cask |
330ml 750ml 1 litre |
0.47 3.75+ 2.25 |
|||
tea coffee (cafe / bar) Nescafe instant coffee-ground |
24 bags per cup 50g 500g |
0.85 0.30-0.50 2.50 2.00 |
rice (white) pasta eggs tomato paste |
kg |
1.19 0.43 0.55 0.45 |
soya milk powder milk yoghurt / curd cheese Magnum like icecream |
200g 1 litre 125g 365g each |
1.15 |
potatoes onions tomatoes cabbage brocolli |
kg kg kg kg kg |
1.32 1.76 2.64 0.99 1.87 |
chips salted peanuts cashews sultanas |
184.2g pack 170g 190g 425g |
2.20 1.00 4.10 1.85 |
avocados apples oranges bananas |
each each kg kg |
0.35-0.50 0.25-0.50 3.85 1.21 |
cornflakes chocolate museli bars biscuits-plain biscuits-chocolate |
350g pack 100g block 6x25g 200g pack 200g pack |
1.40 1.85 3.25 0.85 1.99 |
pineapple (can) oil (corn) |
280g can 455ml |
0.75 1.15 |
peanut paste jam honey |
340g jar 300g pot 175g |
2.19 1.59 1.19 |
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* Majority of prices obtained from both Super 99 and Rey supermarket chains | |||||
accommodation | personal | ||||
budget city hostel budget city hostel budget hotel |
7.50-9.00+ per dorm bed 20.00+ private double 14.00-22.00 double with bath |
deodorant - roll-on |
50ml 125g bar 200ml each 75ml 2 pack 2 pack |
1.20 0.50 1.70 1.55+ 1.85 0.65 1.20 |
|
camping |
ask in local villages or by churches. |
||||
internet | 0.50-1.00 per hour |
*
tba = price to be announced * June 2009: at time of writing 1.00 EURO = 1.40 USD all prices have been taken from internet resources such as wikitravel, hostel world, leading supermarket chains, travel blogs, forums and of course our own travel experiences and purchases of everyday products in food markets, bazaars and local shopping facilities. They are only an indication and designed to give you a general impression of the cost of living in Panama. Items are geared towards the budget conscious traveller with an occasional craving for a bit of luxury. |
* | Bargaining
for souvenirs or if you happen to be purchasing
goods in bulk is commonly accepted in Panama.
Markets are another place where you can practice
your haggling skills. Otherwise prices are fixed. |
* | Tipping
is not compulsory, but generally expected in most
mid to high range restaurants. Your bill will
normally state whether a service charge has been
added or not. The customary amount to leave is
10-15% of the total bill. A five percent government
tax will be incurred in most sit-down table service
establishments. |
* |
Taxi drivers do not expect tips and prices should
be confirmed before entering the taxi. In Panama
City, they are notorious for ripping foreigners
off. In 2009, you can get virtually anywhere in
the city centre for $US1.50 plus 35 cents for
each additional person. Never pay more than $US3.
Drivers are also known to be particularly unfriendly.
So, if you don't like the attitude or the price:
walk away and try elsewhere. |
Outside of these areas, you can pick up a decent double hotel room with private bathroom for literally the same price of two dorm beds. In 2009, a basic double cost from as little as $14 in a Chinese hotel to $22 in a mid-range Panamanian hotel in a small town.
Camping in Panama
It is possible to camp on some of the beaches in Panama,
though safety can be issue in some areas. There are
only a few official camp areas in the mountains, but
it is not difficult to find a spot in a village if
you ask first. Camping wild can prove a little more
difficult as much of the land is owned or fenced off.
If you do happen to chance upon something suitable,
make sure you keep yourself well hidden from the road
and prying eyes.
Acommodation we used while in Panama (June 2009): (prices based on two people sharing) | ||||
Star system explained: from 0 to ***** where 0 is a total disaster and ***** is luxurious (and out of our price range) | ||||
City / town: | Name accommodation: | Our experience: | Price: | Stars: |
La Chorrera | Hospedaje Lamas | dubious | US$ 14 | * |
David | Purple House | a bit too controled... | US$ 20 | ** |
La Lajas | Paradise Inn | a bit too luxurious..., WiFi | US$ 37,50 | *** |
Panama City | Zulys Backpackers | crowded, WiFi not working | US$ 22 | *½ |
Penonomé | Hotel Dos Continentos | a very good deal | US$ 22 | ***½ |
Santiago | Hotel Hong | small not too clean box | US$ 15 | * |
Comida típica or traditional Panamanian cooking is pretty much similar to what you will find in the rest of Central America. Rice and beans provide the staple as do cassava (yucca) and plantano bananas. The corn tortilla in Panama however, is completely unique: considerably thicker and generally smaller, these distinctively yellow corn dough rounds are fried and a very popular breakfast essential. Often they are served with eggs and melted cheese. Meat and seafood are also incredibly popular and there is little to tempt the vegetarian in the way of true Panamanian fare. In and around the west highland foothills of Volcán Barú, fertile soil and cooler temperatures result in a year round supply of fresh produce, which apart from imports, is where most of the countries vegetables come from. Other areas of the country are hot and humid and this severely limits the choice and availability of the non-meat eater's staples. In fact, apart from corn, cassava, plantains and the typical side serve of cabbage salad topped with a slice of tomato, vegetables are rarely incorporated into conventional Panamanian meals. But all is not lost for the hungry vegetarian. The result of years of cultural influence from a variety of backgrounds has left the cities with a diverse choice of culinary options. There are plenty of pizzerias and Italian restaurants as well as Lebanese and Indian establishments. All of which have enough choice of vegetarian and/or vegan dishes. |
|
But by far the most widely available vegetarian food throughout the country is easily found in the local Chinese eateries with their cheap, wholesome and decent sized portions of vegetables, rice and noodles. Some may even have tofu on the menu: known as queso China [Chinese cheese].
Furthering this, in the larger townships you can more often than not stumble upon a vegetarian buffet. Almost exclusively run by Chinese, these cafeteria-like dining halls have an array of vegan dishes to choose from. On average, it costs around 50 cents per portion and a hungry traveller can fill up on a nourishing meal for as little as $US2.00.
Self catering is also easy in Panama: large supermarkets stock everything necessary for whipping up a well balanced dinner. They generally have their own snack and fast food section as well, where you can often purchase fried rice and vegetables, chowmein, chips and other light snacks. You'll have the choice to eat in orpar llevar [take-away].
A couple
of budget recommendations Here are just a couple of budget places to recommend for vegetarians and non-vegetarians alike in David and Panama City. This is just the tip of the coconut ice cream, so explore and you'll find many more options. Casa Vegetariana (David) Casa Vegetariana (Panama
City) Me Gusta Comida Vegetarian
(Panama City) Pizzeria Sorrento (Panama
City) |
From one internet source, "the drinking water of Panama City is so good that it is known as the 'Champagne of the Chagres', after the river from which it is drawn". This is not completely true unfortunately and even though iced water is served free in every restaurant it smells a little of chlorine. The intensity of the chlor-levels in some towns are worse than others, but in general the tap water is safe to drink. The only spot where you should be careful are in remote ruralness and the island Bocas del Toro.
There are a number of Panamanian beers to choose from including Atlas, Panama, Soberano and Balboa and the popularity of drinking the amber ale is reflective of the cheap outlay for one can. In 2009, a 355ml can costs no more than 0.50 cents. You can also find all your favourite imports as well at extremely reasonable prices. When it really comes to celebrating, Seco Herrerano, commonly referred to as seco, is the party liquid. Wine from all over the world is readily obtainable in most supermarkets, the larger having the best selections to choose from.
Why not try these
for starters? |
Patacones Fried plantain flesh, flattened and then fried again in a light crispy batter. |
Hojaldras Also known as “Panamanian donuts”, these piping hot fried bits of dough are served sprinkled with sugar or vanilla and compliment a strong cup of freshly brewed coffee perfectly. |
Desayuna Típica Panamanian tortillas are incredibly popular for breakfast. Much thicker and smaller than what you'll find else where in Central America, theses rounds of bright yellow corn dough are deep fried served with eggs topped with melting cheese. Great start to an energetic day. |
The Chinese Vegetarian
Buffet |
Raspados If you happen to be around Avenue Balboa or Casa Viejo in Panama City, then don't let the opportunity pass you by to purchase a deliciously refreshing raspados from one of the street vendors: shaven ice flavoured with the juice of any one of the amazing tropical fruits Panama has on offer. Don't forget to do as the locals do and top it off with a richly sweet dollop of condensed milk. |
Pastel de Tres Leches Originally from Nicaragua, but spread far and wide in Central and South American, this simple, but delicious dessert of sponge is, as its name suggests, soaked in three kinds of leche [milk]: evaporated milk, condensed milk and cream and just as icing on the cake, topped with a crown of soft meringue. |
Pipas The natural juice of a green unripe coconut is said to cleanse the system and this ice cold refreshing health drink can be sipped up through a straw at roadside stalls, food markets or even plucked directly from the coconut palm in the more traditional places. Careful though, too much of this pleasantly sweet pick-me up can act as a strong diuretic. |
Chicha con Arroz
y Piña Chichas are are delicious blend of any number of fresh fruit juices available in Panama, but for a more exotic twist, why not try a chicha con arroz y piña. Pineapple skins and rice are boiled until soft; cooled; blended; and strained. The liquid is sometimes flavoured with strawberry, a hint of vanilla and sugar. Over the rocks with an optional nip of seco [Panamaniam rum], this is better than any cocktail you could imagine. Be warned if you ask for chicha in Kuna Yala, you'll end up with something ceremonial and completely different. Here chicha is an alcoholic beverage made from fermented sugar cane juice flavoured with coffee or cacao. |
Panama City | Rali has five shops in Panama: 1. Vía España Tel. 263-4136 Fax. 263-5450 2. Punta Paitilla Tel. 223-8053 Fax. 223-8054 3. Centro Comercial Los Pueblos Tel. 217-8080 Fax. 217-8460 4. Gran Terminal de Albrook Tel. 314-6272 Fax. 314-6273 5. La Chorrera Tel. 254-0506 Fax. 254-1924 website: www.rali-carretero.com |
Detailed distance chart from our trip through Panama 2009 (km/alti) | ||||
altitude (in metres) in brackets | accomm.: |
km |
total km |
|
H= hotel / cabañas . C= camping / trailer park . B= beach camp | ||||
Paso Canoas (border Costa Rica) | La Concepcion (226) | H |
28 |
28 |
La Concepcion | David (66) | H |
28 |
56 |
David | San Lorenzo | 46 |
102 |
|
San Lorenzo | San Juan Cerillos | 17 |
119 |
|
San Juan Cerillos | Las Lajas turn-off (65) | 14 |
133 |
|
Las Lajas turn-off | Las Lajas (43) | H |
3 |
136 |
Las Lajas | Las Lajas turn-off (65) | 3 |
139 |
|
Las Lajas turn-off | petrol station (265) | 28 |
167 |
|
petrol station | top 1st hill (289) | 5 |
172 |
|
top 1st hill | river crossing (50) | 7 |
179 |
|
river crossing | top 2nd hill (414) | 17 |
196 |
|
top 2nd hill | start old road | 5 |
201 |
|
start old road | top 3rd hill (177) | 12 |
213 |
|
top 3rd hill | La Mesa (183) | 15 |
228 |
|
La Mesa | Santiago (95) | H/C |
29 |
257 |
Santiago | turn-off to Divise / Chitré | 35 |
292 |
|
turn-off to Divise / Chitré | Aguadulce | H |
22 |
314 |
Aguadulce | Natá | 10 |
324 |
|
Natá | Penonomé | H |
35 |
359 |
Penonomé | Anton | H |
17 |
376 |
Anton | Rio Hato | H |
12 |
388 |
Rio Hato | Santa Clara | H/C |
7 |
395 |
Santa Clara | San Carlos | H |
21 |
416 |
San Carlos | turn-off El Coronado | H |
10 |
426 |
turn-off El Coronado | Chamé | 6 |
432 |
|
Chamé | start climb (30) | 15 |
447 |
|
start climb | Altos de Campana (217) | 3 |
450 |
|
Altos de Campana | Capira (150) | 5 |
455 |
|
Capira | La Chorrera (110) | H |
19 |
474 |
La Chorrera | Arraijan (130) | 20 |
494 |
|
Arraijan | Puente de las Americas (50) | 10 |
504 |
|
Puente de las Americas | Panama City | H |
15 |
519 |