Area: 100,032 sq km
Population: 49,044,790
Population density: 493 per sq km
Capital: Seoul
Passport Required? | |
---|---|
British | Yes |
Australian | Yes |
Canadian | Yes |
USA | Yes |
Other EU | Yes |
Visa Required? | |
British | No |
Australian | No |
Canadian | No |
USA | No |
Other EU | No |
drinks | food: local markets; restaurants; and stores | ||||
water |
1 litre 1.5 litre 200ml 330ml 1.6 litre |
800 780 500 700 1750 |
bread loaf-white bread loaf-whole grain |
800g 800g |
1500 2500 |
yemen pot noodles average meal rest ready made soup |
227g pot |
600 7000-12000 620 |
|||
beer wine |
500ml bottle pitcher (1.6 litre) 750ml |
1050-2000 3500 5000+ |
udon noodles (fresh) rice cakes (fresh) rice (white) |
3 x 200g |
2500 1500 6500 |
coffee |
mini vending cup |
300-400 |
tomato pasta sauce eggs mushrooms-king oyster |
845g jar per dozen 400 g pack |
4480 2000 1000 |
milk yoghurt cheese magnum icecream |
1 litre 500g 200g each |
1400 1500 2500 2000 |
potatoes potatoes - sweet onions carrots |
kg kg kg kg |
2360 2560 3780 2360 |
cornflakes rice crackers chips |
375g 130-150g pack 110g packet |
3500 1000-1500 1500 |
cherry tomatoes |
500g kg kg kg each 500g 500ml |
2980 4000 5000 3080 1000-1250 1500 1200 |
cheesecake bean buns museli bars chocolate (dark) biscuits (simple) biscuits (cream) |
80g slice each 3 x 26g 72g block 150g packet 160g packet |
1850 500-600 2340 1000 1000 1500+ |
|||
jam peanut paste (skippy) |
340g 340g |
2500 3900 |
|||
accommodation | personal | ||||
budget city hostel budget city hotel |
10000-18000 per dorm bed 25000 double with ensuite |
deodorant roll-on soap shampoo toothbrush toothpaste disposable razor toilet paper |
50ml 150g 200ml each 100ml 5 pack 10 rolls |
11000+ 1200 5000 1200+ 2000 2000 2500 |
|
camping | fees vary from 3000-6000 won per day depending on tent size. 3500-7000 in peak times | ||||
internet | 2000 per hour |
*
tba = price to be announced * January 2009: at time of writing 1.00 USD = 1100 KRW all prices have been taken from internet resources such as wikitravel, hostel world, leading supermarket chains, travel blogs, forums and of course our own travel experiences and purchases of everyday products in food markets, bazaars and local shopping facilities. They are only an indication and designed to give you a general impression of the cost of living in South Korea. Items are geared towards the budget conscious traveller with an occasional craving for a bit of luxury. |
Source:www.exchange-rates.org |
Accommodation and where to
sleep
The best value for money accommodation for
the budget traveller in Korea are the motels, often
typified by an "onsen" symbol on
their sign: simplified it is like an "C" lying
horizontal with three heat waves coming off it). They
are also known as yeogwan and are similar to
the Japanese love motel but much more akin to a backpackers
wallet and you don't have to pay by the hour. In 2008,
a double room cost around 25,000 Won.
Guesthouses are also prominent in larger cities and tourist destinations, though a little pricier (In 2008: 30-40,000 Won for a double with share bathroom). But of course, these travel institutes come complete with the added bonus of a share kitchen, washing facilities, internet and lots of other voyagers to exchange information with.
Camping in Korea
There are some official camping areas in and around
nationally reserved land or prime tourist locations
in South Korea. (see the
National
Parks
website or
World
Wildlife Adventures
for details about where and how much it costs to camp).
Price is determined on your tent size and whether it
is high or low season. Like Japan wild camping is tolerated
in South Korea, however, seeing as you are cycling through
the third most densely populated country of the world,
it means having a keen eye. Much of the land is farmed,
but luckily the plots are not always fenced off, so
you can occasionally find a suitable spot in a grassy
field. Most of the time though, you'll be confined to
river banks close to bridges as this is usually the
only access point to get your bike down the usually
rocky or sandy terrain.
South Koreans use the river for recreational purposes as well, so expect a few friendly visits if you set up before dusk. Near more densely populated areas it is almost impossible to find anything appropriate and away from prying eyes: a hotel is your only real option. The military presence in South Korea, especially in the northern regions will also hamper your wild-camping opportunities. A 10 kilometre band running the length of the North and South Korean border is strictly no-go for cycling (no maps will show this), unless you have a special permit.
In smaller towns and more rural areas, the police can also help you out with locating a spot for spending the night. More often than not, they have a detailed map of the area and know where locals and truck-drivers usually camp overnight. Some of these places can even come complete with a porta-loo. There is nearly always an abundant supply of fresh running water, which will need filtering of course. When we travelled there in 2008, we found the police to be friendly and incredibly helpful by not only sending us to perfect camping areas, but also allowing us to use their telephone and internet services as well.
It is also interesting to note that Yeongjong Island, 60 odd kilometres from Seoul and where Inchun International Airport is situated, has a couple of official camping areas. The parks along the highway are also unofficially used by local fishermen and perfect if you want to get a spot of wild camping in before your early flight out of South Korea.
Cycling in Korea
Korea is not for the unfit, nor the faint hearted: it
is one mass of mountains. And while they might not be
that high boy, oh boy, they are steep. Everyday will
be a relentless series of sweaty grunts and groans uphill
followed often by a tunnel and then a silent but well-earned
relief, coasting down again. If you want your sanity
to remain with you throughout your cycling adventure,
then it is best to stick to the three-digit highways,
as frequently they are quieter and more rural. Frequently,
it also means a more challenging route.
City outskirts are habitually overrun with industry and the associated heavy traffic and exhaust. Seoul and a few other larger cities have great bike lanes along the river, which can take you some of the distance without the hassle of excessive traffic and stop lights. The only problem is directions are somewhat lacking and it is difficult to read highway signs from such a vantage point. Other towns also have bike lanes leading you directly to the centre, though they are not always suitable for the loaded bike: usually being not wide enough to get you and your bags through the concrete obstructions, nor paved suitably for anything other than a well shockered mountain bike. Quite routinely they will end abruptly with an inconvenient hurdle over obstacles or an irritating backtrack immediately following to get you back on the highway.
Riding on any of the major highways can be physically and mentally exhausting. Not only the undulating nature of the road network, but traffic in general has little respect for your cycling plight. The usual arrogance and impatience from truck, bus and taxi drivers is felt as much in built-up areas of South Korea as anywhere respective in the world. It pays to spend a bit of time researching your route prior to cycling it and plot a course through the more pastoral regions and the National Parks . It is by far the more scenic way to go.
Highway madness aside, Korea is not only a rewarding challenge as far as pedalling is concerned, but familiarising yourself with the people and their customs is culturally inspiring. The most enchanting asset of South Korea is that there is nowhere like it in the world. It is completely unique.
Acommodation we used while in South Korea (July 2008): (prices based on two people sharing) | ||||
The rest of the time we actually camped wild everywhere, no problem in Korea. | ||||
Star system explained: from 0 to ***** where 0 is a total disaster and ***** is luxurious (and out of our price range) | ||||
City / town: | Name accommodation: | Our experience: | Price: | Stars: |
Busan | Blue Backpackers | busy, friendly, clean, WiFi | KRW 30,000 | *** |
Doldonjae | Woraksan NP campground | dirty, no electricity | KRW -- | ½ |
Gyeongju | Hanjin Guesthouse | pretty grotty really | KRW 30,000 | * |
Hwanyangdong | Songnisan NP campground | gravel pitch, facilities basic | KRW 3,000 | * |
Seoul | Kim's Guesthouse | nice place, friendly owner | KRW 38,000 | *** |
Sokcho | Seoraksan NP campground | grassy pitches, ample facilities | KRW 8,000 | **½ |
Korea's staple crop is rice and the cuisine certainly reflects this. It also utilises noodles, tofu and a wide variety of vegetables, which are quite commonly served raw in a salad or zested up in a pickled brine. In fact, Korea is quite famous for this latter method of preservation. The most popular being kimchi, which is without a doubt served at almost every meal. The most common recipe uses baechu [napa cabbage], fermented in a brine of ginger, garlic, scallions, and chilli pepper, but there are endless other varieties using daikon, cucumber, winter greens and other seasonal vegetables. Fermented vegetable recipes were developed early on in Korean food history as a means of providing the population with the necessary proteins and vitamins during the bleak winter months. Traditionally, kimchi is made with a salty shrimp, but these days there are clearly marked varieties on supermarket shelves produced especially for vegetarians. (The little sticker will help you out here). Another type of kimchi, known as mulgimchi [water kimchi] is salted in a broth clear of any fish paste what so ever.
|
Adding to the excitement of Korean food, the customary spice kitchen is full of rich and delicious seasonings, mostly in the form of pastes and oils: doenjang [fermented soybean paste], gochujang [red chili paste] soy sauce, garlic, ginger and sesame oil. And lucky enough for the vegetarian, suitable cookery can be traced back to strong Buddhist influence and hence there are small vegetarian establishments dotted all over the country. Not all of them, however, are well advertised. The Korean monastery restaurants are obviously a safe haven for vegans and vegetarians alike, whose cuisine apart from using honey, is completely animal and dairy free. In recent times, it has become relatively trendy to eat in these places so it can prove an expensive exercise. HappyCow has a list of some restaurants in the larger cities, though most of these are limited to a buffet style arrangement. So far everything sounds pretty good for the vegetarian, but here come the problems you'll face as a non-meat eater in South Korea. Firstly, although vegetarianism is becoming ever so slightly popular, most people do not really understand the concept of not wanting to eat meat. If you ask for your dish to be prepared "no gogi" you could well expect seafood to be included, or worse still that the dish is prepared as per usual and the obvious chunks of meat removed before you get it. One way around this is to say you are a chaesikjuwija: a person who only eats vegetables. |
The second issue you will face is that most of the Korean jjigae [stews] use fish stock, especially myeol-chi which is derived from anchovies. And even though there are many banchan [side dishes] suitable for vegans and vegetarians, it is not normal to serve a traditional Korean dinner with these alone. Appropriate street food is certainly available, but you will need to hunt around a bit and possibly do a bit of negotiation and investigation before you order.
If all else fails, you can always self cater: hostals and guesthouses quite often come with a communal kitchen and the supermarkets are fully stocked with a bountiful supply of fresh and packaged food products, as are the wonderfully vibrant market places.
Food also plays an important role in the drinking culture in South Korea too and if you are partial to beer or soju or two, then you'll undoubtedly find yourself in the extraordinary ambience of the Korean Hof (also known as a Hopeu). The menu comprises a list of beer and beer quantities, soju and Anju [side dishes specifically consumed with alcohol]. As a customer, you are obligated to order a selection of these appetisers with your beer. As a vegetarian, you will find it difficult to hit upon something meat-free on the menu.
While the increasingly popular maekju [beer] market is currently dominated by three major brands: OB, Cass and Hite, Soju, a clear grain spirit often fermented from rice, is traditionally synonymous with South Korea. These days other varieties derived from potatoes and barley can also be found, though grain Soju is regarded as the more superior. Yakju, also brewed from rice, is a refined pure liquor while Takju is unrefined, producing a thick, milky rice wine. There are also many fruit and herbal wines on the supermarket shelves in South Korea, though their palate is not the conventional flavour of wine as the western world knows it to be. Some popular selections available include: plum, ginseng, cherry, quince, and pomegranate. The South Koreans even blend their own wine with French and American varieties to create Majuang wine. Not only imported but good local wine is relatively expensive compared to other alcohol purchases.
For more general information about Korean food have a look at the Food in Korea website.
Why not try these
for starters? |
Bibimbap
Namul can contain a selection of the following vegetables when in season: oi [cucumber, hobak [zucchini], mu [daikon], carrot, any of the numerous beoseot [mushroom] varieties available, doraji [bellflower root], sigeumchi [spinach], kongnamul [soybean sprouts], or gosari [bracken fern stems]. Furthermore an egg, either raw or fried, might compliment the dish as can fresh dubu [tofu]. More often than not though, sliced meat comes along with the deal and vegetarians will need to ask for this addition to be left out. An offshoot version is Kimchi bokeum-bap: a garlicky fried rice with kimchi [fermented spicy cabbage] and sesame seeds. Also served with a fried egg and traditionally ham or sausage, but it is easy enough for non-meat eaters to ask for this dish minus the meat elements. |
Gimbap
|
Saengchae or Sukchae
Both saengchae or sukchae are a vegans perfect side dish. Saengchae literally translated as "fresh vegetables", is known for its simple zest by the addition of vinegar, chilli powder and salt to anything vegetable seasonally available. Contrastingly, Sukchae or "heated vegetables" partially cooks them and spices up the dish with soy sauce, sesame oil, chopped garlic, and just a hint of chilli. |
Bindaetteok or Bindaebyeong
In South Korea, jeon or buchimgae is the general term for any savory wheat flour pancake. In earlier times it was deemed that wealthy people ate meat while the underprivileged ate bindaetteok or bindaebyeong: the later literally translating as "poor man's pancake". This type of jeon is made with ground mung beans, pa [scallions], kimchi, sesame oil and chilli pepper. Lightly fried in an oiled pan and served piping hot, it is commonly accompanied with a dipping sauce of slightly sweetened vinegar, soy sauce and chilli flakes. Other popular varieties include: hobakjeon: made with squash; yeongeunjeon: made with lotus root; gochujeon: made with chili peppers; dubujeon: made with tofu; and nokdujeon: made with mung beans. Plenty of choice for the hungry vegetarian. |
Banchan
Banchan [side dish] are small uncomplicated dishes served with the South Korean main meal. Surprisingly enough, there are plenty of vegetarian options available. Below are just a few to get you started. Chwinamul: a collective group, including the aster scaber, of wild scented greens, lightly sauteed and believed to have a multitude of health benefits if consumed. Kong Jang: sweet and sticky soya beans. Gamja Jorim: gamja [potatoes] and red peppers in a sweet soy sauce. Kongnamul: parboiled soya bean sprouts seasoned with sesame oil, soy sauce, scallions, sesame seeds, garlic, and a just a hint of chilli powder. Soya bean sprouts are a main ingredient of the several other popular South Korean dishes as well: kongnamul-bap [sprouts and rice]; kongnamul-guk [sprout soup]; and logically kongnamul-gukbap; sprouts and rice soup]. |
Sundubu Jjigae
Something to warm and fill you up at the same time: a hot and spicy Korean stew, traditionally boiled at your table over a hot fire. This one is bountifully full of dubu (tofu), onions, fresh vegetables, mushrooms and gochu garu [chilli powder]. A raw egg is put in the jjigae [stew] while it is still boiling and served with a bowl of cooked white rice. Often several banchan [side dishes] come along with the deal. This all-time favorite in South Korea is frequently prepared with myeol-chi [anchovy fish stock], but this doesn't have to be the case, so make sure you ask before ordering. |
Ho-Tteok
This small pancake-come-donut is extremely popular in the winter in South Korea, but you'll find this street treat delicious the whole year round. Round balls of sweetened dough, griddled flat and filled with a crunchy crumble of brown sugar, chopped peanuts, cinnamon and sesame seeds. Guaranteed yo9u wont want to stop at one. And for the self-caterer, life is really sweet with ready-made dry ho-tteok mix commercially available at markets and food stores. |
Tguk Hangwa [Korean
Confectionary]
One all time dessert favourite is tteok. While there are several varieties to chose from, in a nutshell, they are chewy rice-flour cakes filled or smothered with sweetened bean paste, nuts, pumpkin and/or honey. Delicious as an energy boosting snack or just something a little sweet after your meal. |
Patbingsu
Patbingsu is also a very popular street stall desert and uses tteok as one of its ingredients: Basically one big delicious mix of shaved ice, pat [sweetened azuki beans], chopped fruits and tteok, fruit syrup, cereal, jelly bits and sweetened condensed milk. Sometimes yoghurt, cream or ice cream will also be added to make this the perfect summer cooler. |
Detailed distance chart from our trip through South Korea June / July 2008 (km/alti) | |||
Busan - Hangyeryong Pass
(Seoraksan National Park) -
Sokcho - Incheon International Airport (Seoul) |
km |
total
km |
|
Busan | Haeundae | 24 |
24 |
Haeundae | Gyeongju | 100 |
124 |
Gyeongju | Bugye | 88 |
212 |
Bugye | Gunwi | 12 |
224 |
Gunwi | Sangju | 64 |
288 |
Sangju | Hwabuk Songnisan National Park | 43 |
331 |
Hwabuk | Hwayangdong | 25 |
356 |
Hwayangdong | Doldonjae Woraksan National Park (281) | 59 |
414 |
Dondonjae | Chungju (114) | 33 |
447 |
Chungju | Sinlim Chiaksan National Park (328) | 56 |
503 |
Sinlim | Wonju (131) | 20 |
523 |
Wonju | Gapcheon (193) | 37 |
560 |
Gapcheon | Seoseok (300) | 25 |
585 |
Seoseok | Sangnam (382) | 16 |
601 |
Sangnam | Hyeon-ri (301) | 14 |
615 |
Hyeon-ri | Hangyeryeong Pass (920) | 28 |
643 |
Sokcho | Misiryong (767) | 19 |
19 |
Misiryong | Gwanchi tunnel (525) | 43 |
62 |
Gwanchi tunnel | Yomi | 32 |
94 |
Yomi | Ocheon tunnel (456) | 6 |
100 |
Ocheon tunnel | Haesan tunnel (688) | 20 |
120 |
Haesan | Hwacheon (131) | 25 |
145 |
Hwacheon | Woncheon (129) | 11 |
156 |
Woncheon | Sacheong (300) | 23 |
179 |
Sacheong | Hao tunnel (582) | 11 |
190 |
Hao tunnel | Sinsul (415) | 12 |
202 |
Sinsul | Jadong (282) | 4 |
206 |
Jadong | Dongmak | 37 |
243 |
Dongmak | Yeoncheon | 35 |
278 |
Yeoncheon | Yul-Gol (Freedom Bridge) | 69 |
347 |
Yul-Gol | Munsan | 12 |
359 |
Munsan | Seoul | 58 |
417 |
Seoul | Incheon ferry terminal (Yeongjong Island) | 68 |
485 |
Yeongjong Island ferry terminal | Incheon international airport | 15* |
500 |
* approx. distance: we camped further up the road and had to cycle back the next day. |