Area: 163,610 sq km
Population: 10,102,000
Population density: 62 per sq km
Capital: Tunis
Passport Required? | |
---|---|
British | Yes |
Australian | Yes |
Canadian | Yes |
USA | Yes |
Other EU | Yes |
Visa Required? | |
British | No |
Australian | Yes/1 |
Canadian | No |
USA | No |
Other EU | No/2 |
Cycling in Tunisia
You can cycle almost anywhere in Tunisia: highways
included, however those with a shoulder will
give you a little more sense of security
than those without. Tunis is not a difficult
capital city to enter or leave and although
you have to watch out for a few crazy antics
from taxi drivers, traffic in general is
reasonably courteous. On the other hand,
you will definitely have to be careful of
pedestrians, since they seem to step out
of nowhere without warning.
Dress code is fairly simple: you just have to take a look around you. Both men and women don't show their legs, so the lycra riding gear is probably better worn underneath a pair of baggy trousers. While the larger cities have plenty of females who choose not to wear a head scarf, they still do not show much skin at all. The countryside paints an entirely different picture: women not only cover up very modestly, but nearly all wear a head scarf. It is not necessary to especially go out and purchase a scarf, but you may come up against a situation where you feel more at ease with one. Besides, with all the wind and sand, some fabric to wrap around the head could come in handy in other ways.
Our route took us from Tunis to El Fahs and onto Kairouan via the GP3. We then cycled on the MC87 to El Jem to join up with the GP1 leading to Sfax. The journey to this point was through olive groves connected by small villages and farms. The experience was very friendly and traffic, especially the trucks surprisingly considerate. The main highway from Sfax to Gabes is contrastingly a nightmare ride with a constant flow of very fast moving single lane traffic. In sections, there is barely a shoulder to use and vehicles overtake even if you are in their path. The traffic lightened a little from Gabes to Mareth, where we turned off onto the very quiet MC118 heading towards Île de Jerba. Contrastingly, the MC117 taking us off the island to Ben Gardane is busier.Road distance signs enroute are plentiful and reasonably accurate, as is the map you can pick up from any tourist information bureau in Tunis. Two distance errors we noted were: the turnoff outside Mareth to Djorf is 49 and not 39 kilometres; and Ben Gardane to Rasjedire is 33 and not 26 kilometres.
Cities are not well signposted, especially at roundabouts, so you may find yourself stopping to ask for directions quite often. In some towns, street names are only in Arabic. Most people speak French too. Road conditions vary greatly: from perfect asphalt to bumpy uncared for surfaces; shoulders come and go but in general highways are decent. If you can steer clear of the main thoroughfares then you will have a much more pleasant ride, though heading south towards the Libyan border means this will be almost impossible, without large detours through middle-country. There are very few alternatives getting yourself from A to B in Tunisia, though this limitation means you are not likely to get yourself lost either.
Leading out of Tunis, you will encounter a few undulations but these diminish, the further south you go. Unfortunately, the likelihood of prevailing hot winds blowing from the southwest is inevitable and they can whip up quite a force. Sandstorms and poor visibility are also common.
If the wind and weather are on your side, then cycling in Tunisia can be a great exploration of diverse countryside and attractions: the deserts and earth carved dwellings of the Berber people in the south; the enchantingly laid-back life on Île de Kerkennah and Île de Jerba in the Golf de Gabes in the east; and the unspoiled marshlands of Lac de l' Ichkeul and peaceful beaches on Rass Sidi Ali El Mekki peninsula in the north. And then there are the bustling medinas and souks in the cities. Tunisia really has a lot on offer, you just have to decide what you would like to see.
Tunisia Travel Map rip & waterproof |
Cost of Living in Tunisia: all
prices in Tunisia Dinars (TND)
A couple of extra tips:
|
Tunisian Internet: the big BA (Ben Ali) is watching you! Not only is the freedom of speech suppressed in Tunisia, but internet is highly censored too. You will be unable to open youtube; vimeo; and flickr without using a proxy installed on your own computer (internet proxy's are blocked too of course). Furthermore, anything unfavourably written about the president will be immediately censored. The internet police have even gone as far as creating mirror pages for search engine and wiki pages to track individual internet usage. In addition to the irritating big brother control, internet connections are painstakingly slow and unstable. |
Larger cities usually have an area around the medina and/or the main bus station, where a concentration of cheap to mid-range hotels can be found. In 2010, an average double room with bathroom cost between 35 and 50 Tunisian Dinars. Don't be surprised if your hotel room only has a shower and wash basin, since it is quite normal for older style buildings to have share toilets on each floor. For long term stays a discount is quite often possible.
Complimenting the building's age, the decor will undoubtedly be a little worn, but if you hunt around, you will eventually find something clean and charming enough, albeit old fashioned. A basic room will include towels, soap, toilet paper and breakfast usually consisting of white bread, a croissant type pastry, margarine, jam and your choice of coffee or tea. Only some hotels have wifi, though it is becoming more and more popular.
In between the well known cites, there are not many accommodation choices at all and it is possible that even a decent sized town will not have a single hotel on offer. If you happen to visit El Jem you will find that Hotel Julius, next to the train station is no longer in operation. Should you really do want to stay close to the town, then Hotel Club Ksar El Jem about 4 kilometres north of the city does offer accommodation.
Our personal
distance charts have some hotel options
we noticed on the cycle route we took from
Tunis to the border town of Ras Jedire.
tourismtunisia.com:
Clickable map with extensive hotel accommodation
listings throughout the country arranged by
a star rating
Camping in Tunisia
Campgrounds are dotted all over Tunisia,
though camping in Tunisia is hardly commonplace.
There are a bigger concentration of official
spots found in the more frequented tourist places,
especially in the southern desert area. With
a good eye and timing, it is not too difficult
to find somewhere to stow away in the evening,
provided you are prepared to get away from the
main highways, down some sandy tracks and don't
mind the rivets of olive tree groves. Similarly
secluded coastline can be a prime stealth spot.
In the north, central areas and rural areas of
Tunisia you'll more than likely be camping wild
most of the time. There are few other options.
One unique city centre campground can be found in Gabes. Facilities are pretty rundown and dirty, but as a cycle tourer you are given the chance to pitch the tent smack bang in the heart of a bustling city centre. On the other side of the coin, farm owners are generally very welcoming and don't mind you setting up camp on their property for an overnight stay if you ask them.
abenteuer-urlaub.de:
extensive list of Tunisian campgrounds (official
& unofficial) with GPS points compiled by
overlander K. Friedl (in
German)
CAMPINGO.com:
You could try your luck with the campground links
and information on this worldwide camping guide
Tunisian
Cuisine There are an abundance of restaurants, market places, food courts, street stalls and cafés in modern Tunisia to cater for all budgets and tastes. With a bit of hunting around, even a vegetarian can find something to eat. It's a good idea however, to explain to food preparers that you only eat vegetables. Unfortunately, most stock used in the Tunisian kitchen is made from some form of animal product, so while dishes may appear to be meat-free, they are in actual fact, not. Soups are probably one type of meal you should be a little wary of. Couscous is also more than likely cooked with animal stock and since Tunisians like to put tuna on almost anything, it is hard to find a street snack that hasn't been contaminated with the fish. But all is not doom and gloom. Pizza is usually a good bet and can be found all over the country. Quite often there is more than one vegetarian option on the menu consisting of all sorts of wonderful toppings. However the reality is, the kitchen wont have any of these available and while you are dreaming about your asparagus, mushroom and artichoke pizza, the chef will be slapping together something more akin to a margarita with a few tomato slices. This is also why you need to make it completely clear that you don't eat any form of meat. If not, you may be surprised with the addition of tinned tuna or sliced sandwich chicken to jazz up an otherwise rather boring pizza. Bread in Tunisia is heavily subsidized and readily available at markets, small shops, roadside vendors and bakeries. While the crusty white baguette is nowhere near as good as the French variety, it is still delicious when it is fresh and costs a measly 10 euro cents per stick. Better in quality and taste, is the Tunisian olive and onion foccaccia bread found mostly at market places. You had better get there early as it tends to sell out fast. The traditional berber style flat bread tabouna, sprinkled with black zgougou seeds [ particular pine cone seed], is definitely worth a try too. The market place is also a great spot to pick up nuts, dried fruit, cheese, olives and pickled vegetables for a fraction of the supermarket bill. Prices are fixed and food is clearly labelled to avoid any confusion. It still pays to shop around a bit and if you are buying in large amounts a bit of bargaining won't go astray. Sampling before you purchase is pleasantly encouraged. Vegetable stock cubes are very difficult to find. Milk powder, besides baby formula, and vegetable packet soup just don't exist in Tunisia. You might like to pop these in the bags before you leave. Tunis has several chain stores in the city and a Carrefour hypermarket off the highway heading from the centre to La Marsa. A Carrefour Market is on your left heading south out of Sfax; Gabes and Île de Jerba both have a Chez Promogro supermarket chain. Other than in these larger towns, shopping is predominantly carried out in small local stores and market places. Tunisian Drinking
Habits Coffee is just as much an institution as tea is in Tunisia. It is usually served very strong and very short known as an espres. certain to give a boost of energy at any time of day. Beer, spirits and local wine are readily available in chain supermarkets in Tunis, Sfax and other large cities. Hotels and upmarket restaurants also freely sell alcohol, though at considerably increased prices. Obviously, it is widely sold in tourist areas but also at inflated margins so, it pays to shop around if you really must indulge. Outside these areas, it is difficult to find, though not impossible. Often the débits d' alcohol [liquor shops] are no more than an inconspicuous hole in the wall. The local beer band is Celtia, though a few other brands can be found in supermarkets. Non-alcoholic beer is widely available in an array of flavours in all stores. |
|
During religious holidays, only foreigners will be able to purchase alcohol and on Fridays, nearly all shopping establishments in the country pull the shutters down on the shelves. Some cashiers will not touch an alcoholic beverage without first wrapping it in a plastic bag. The Carrefour - about a 6.000 dinar taxi ride from the city centre of Tunis - is one shop that sells alcohol everyday of the week, though technically you need to show your passport to prove that you are not of Muslim descent. This is also the place to be to stock up on all sorts of goodies including a limited variety of western products. Be warned though, imported items are costly and to be honest, spending your money at Tunisian food markets or local stores is much more fun and a better way to learn about the country's culture in general.
Why
not try these for starters? |
Couscous
This national dish can be served without meat, though it is a little dubious in most restaurant kitchens as to whether the stock is completely vegetarian based. A similarly hearty dish is substituted with rice and also widely available. |
Brik à l’oeuf
Lightly cooked egg enveloped in crispy pastry. This restaurant starter or street-cafe snack may often be prepared with prawns or tuna fish: so check first. |
Mechouia
Diced onions, smokey green chilli peppers and tomatoes sauteed in olive oil and served either warm or cold as a salad. Tunisian salads are typically garnished with boiled eggs and tuna fish, so ask to leave the fish or both these ingredients out. Mind your mouthfuls though: this one might be delicious, but it is more often than not spicy hot too. |
Salade
Tunisienne
Lettuce, green pepper, tomato, onions, olives, cucumber, boiled eggs and mixed yet again with thon [tuna fish]. By now you should know to say "without tuna". In French: sans thon; or in Arabic: bilesh tun. |
Khobz
Tabouna with Harrissa, Imalah and Olives
Traditional oven baked bread sprinkled with black zgougou seeds is the perfect accompaniment to a hearty soup or fresh salad. It is also fabulous as a meal starter with some quality olive oil and harrisa paste. This aromatic piquant chili paste is synonymous with Tunisia and due to its fiery nature, it is often toned down with houria [carrot salad] or even some yoghurt. Whichever you get served, still watch out it doesn't take your breath away. Top this entree selection off with a serving of imalah [salt pickled medley of carrots, cauliflower and turnip]. Add a bowl of local green olives and a few slices of Tunisian gruyere cheese and you have got yourself more of meal than an appetiser. Finish off with some hot sweet tea infused with peppermint leaves and you'll consider coming back the following night for some more of the same. |
Lablabi
This hearty chickpea soup is sometimes prepared without meat stock. It is however, served garnished with boiled egg and tuna, but these are easily omitted. Available throughout the entire day and considered more of a snack than anything else. Just head to the souk area or workmen's cafes and you are bound to find it on the menu. |
Tajines
Not to be confused with the Moroccan counterpart, this frittata like omelette baked in the oven can also be prepared without meat. |
Ojia
or Chakchouka
Quick, simple and easily whipped up in any kitchen without the meat. This basic dish of diced tomatoes, green peppers, onions, garlic and a few spices scrambled up with eggs is a comfortable favourite to resort to, when things are looking grim on the vegetarian front. Likewise, most restaurants and cafes serve omlette natural [plain] or omlette fromage [with cheese]. |
Masfouf
A fine semolina pudding served with sticky dates and raisins and topped with fresh pistachio and pine nuts. After a serving of this sweet and sticky dessert, there is probably no more room for anything else. |
Bambaloon
Miniature Tunisian sweet things resembling baklava, honey soaked fruit and nut filled pastries and fried donut-like cakes served with sprinkled with sugar. You can buy these by the kilo in supermarkets or from street vendors at market areas and transport hubs. Especially good for the day tripper, since they are cram packed with energy. |
Detailed distance chart from our trip through Tunisia - November, December 2010 (km/alti) | ||||
accomm.: |
km |
altimetres |
||
H= hotel . C= camping (altitude in brackets) | ||||
Tunis | turn-off Oudna (15) | 9 |
63 |
|
turn-off Oudna | turn-off Aqueduct (64) | 13 |
74 |
|
trun-off Aqueduct | Bir Mecharga (174) | 25 |
162 |
|
Bir Mecharga | El Fahs (221) | 16 |
136 |
|
El Fahs | turn-off Enfidha (399) | 17 |
188 |
|
turn-off Enfidha | turn-off Sousse (225) | 16 |
92 |
|
turn-off Sousse | Sidi Naji (153) | 14 |
4 |
|
Sidi Naji | Sbikha (131) | 15 |
34 |
|
Sbikha | El Batem (150) | 26 |
81 |
|
El Batem | Kairouan (132) | H |
11 |
21 |
Kairouan | El Manaa (97) | 23 |
27 |
|
El Manaa | Ouled Echamekh (94) | 7 |
7 |
|
Ouled Echamekh | Souassi (97) | 27 |
51 |
|
Souassi | El Jem (154) | H |
17 |
97 |
El Jem | El Hencha (86) | 20 |
22 |
|
El Hencha | Sfax (10) | H |
43 |
146 |
Sfax | Nakta | 27 |
46 |
|
Nakta | Mahares | H |
9 |
15 |
Mahares | Smara | 22 |
26 |
|
Smara | Hachichina | 11 |
9 |
|
Hachichina | Skhira | 18 |
40 |
|
Skhira | Boussaid | 12 |
17 |
|
Boussaid | El Akarit | 12 |
37 |
|
El Akarit | Metouia | 16 |
49 |
|
Metouia | Gabes | H/C |
18 |
46 |
Gabes | Kettania | 23 |
89 |
|
Kettania | Mareth | 18 |
83 |
|
Mareth | turn-off Djerba | 4 |
1 |
|
turn-off Djerba | turn-off Boughrara | 28 |
69 |
|
turn-off Boughrara | Djorf (ferry) | 20 |
40 |
|
Djorf (ferry) | Houmt Souk | H |
23 |
62 |
Houmt Souk | start causeway | 23 |
40 |
|
start causeway | end causeway | 7 |
- |
|
end causeway | Zarzis | H |
20 |
66 |
Zarzis | Ben Gardane | H |
49 |
57 |
Ben Gardane | border with Libya @ Ras Jedire | 33 |
63 |