*

Uruguayans are some of the world's top beef consumers, so many of the problems a vegetarian faces in Argentina, Chile and Brazil are seen in this country too. The barbecue is a favourite pastime which kind of explains churrasco [grilled steak] and parrillada [mixed grill platter] being two of the national dishes.

Fruit and vegetables are available but with limited choice and often not of high quality. Food in general is expensive, so be prepared for your budget to rise a little in Uruguay whether you choose to eat out or cater for your self.

With about 88% of Uruguayans coming from European descent it stands to reason that the food culture is also influenced by Spanish, French, German and even Italian cuisine. The latter being a life saver for vegetarians since a simple ravioli or ñoquis [gnocchi] with tomato sauce can be found in just about every restaurant. Other than that the local Chinese or pizzeria is about the only other choice a vegetarian is going to have when it comes to eating out.

In Montevideo, there are a few vegetarian restaurants to choose from and the one with the best reviews is Bambu: a health food store with a chinese takeaway buffet featuring many vegan choices. It is situated on San Jose 1290 and from all accounts it is well worth the visit if you don't mind not being able to eat at the place. They are also one of the only shops where you can buy peanut butter. For details about other restaurant have a look at the HappyCow website.

Served at meetings, with tea and coffee, or just as a pick-me-up snack they are a fundamental part of Uruguayan food culture. And the good news is, they can be found at the panadería [bakery] or the shop specialising in these mini croissant like specialties and called quite aptly: a bizcochería [pastry shop]. They are normally sold by the kilo, so that's a great excuse to choose lots of different types. Some of the more common ones are:

Cruasanes or Croissants: sweetly topped with sugar or chocolate or savory flavoured with a baked cheese coating. Filled with dulce de leche, vanilla pudding, dulce de membrillo or cheese, these are just like the well known western version of the croissant.
Margaritas: As the name suggests a croissant variation resembling a daisy. The centre space on top is available for a filling of pastry cream or dulce de membrillo.
Vigilantes: Long, thin, flaky pastry sticks with sugar on top.
Pan con grasa: One of Uruguay's most popular: a strangely rolled bread pastry likened to a snail's shell with a tail.
Ojitos: Small, round homemade-looking shortbread with a small well in the middle filled with dulce de membrillo: hence the name ojitos because they look exactly like little eyes.
Polvorones: Another kind of soft dough cookie made with nuts or chocolate or both and sometimes coated in chocolate too.

Near boiling point water is poured over the yerba mate packed into the hollowed out gourd and the tea is sipped through a bombilla [metal straw]. While you can rarely find the national drink in a restaurant or cafe, you can buy inexpensive ready-to-use packs from supermarkets and tourist vendors. Still, since it is a communal thing, put a smile on a local's face by asking to join in. But remember these two small rules: never stir the mate with the bombilla and never comment on the preparation of the brew.

Grappamiel
Translated literally as "grape stalk", grappa comes in many flavours and qualities and Uruguay too, has its own version: Grappamiel [honey grappa]. The addition of honey makes the normally quite strong flavour of the Italian born liquor: smooth, tasty and much easier to drink. A definite must try whilst in Uruguay and especially if you need warming up on a cold winter's evening.