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Chile country information

Chile map
Republic of Chile
Area: 756,950 sq km
Population: 16,763,470
Population density: 22 per sq km
Capital: Santiago
Passport & Visa
Passport Required?
British Yes
Australian Yes
Canadian Yes
USA Yes
Other EU Yes
Visa Required?
British No
Australian No/2
Canadian No/2
USA No/2
Other EU No/1

Passports

Passport valid for at least six months required by nationals referred to in the chart above.

Passport Note

Passports issued to children must contain a photo and state the nationality.

Visas

Not required by all nationals referred to in the chart above for stays of up to 90 days except the following:
(a) 1. nationals of Greece for up to 60 days and nationals of Romania for up to 30 days.
(b) transit passengers continuing their journey on the same or first connecting aircraft provided holding required travel documents for onward destination and not leaving the airport transit lounge.

Note: Nationals not referred to in the chart above are advised to contact the embassy to check visa requirements.

Visa Note

2. Nationals of Australia, Canada and the USA entering Chile for touristic purposes will be charged a processing fee payable on arrival and in cash only. For nationals of  Australia, the fee is US$56; for nationals of Canada, the fee is US$132; and for nationals of the USA, the fee is US$100 .
Getting there

Getting There by Air

Chile's main airline is LAN (LA) ( www.lan.com ), which deals with international flights.

Approximate Flight Times

From Miami to Santiago is 8 hours 30 minutes and from Madrid is 13 hours 45 minutes.

Main Airports

Santiago (SCL) (Arturo Merino Benitez) ( www.aeropuertosantiago.cl ). The airport is 21km (11 miles) northwest of Santiago (journey time - 30 minutes). To/from the airport: Bus services to the city centre operate from 0530 to 2400 every day. TurBus and Centropuerto both have cheap shuttle services, which take new arrivals to Pajaritos metro station or to Los Heroes in the city centre. There are a lot of taxis to the city available at the airport. Facilities: Bar, ATM, bureaux de change, restaurants, shops, car hire, post office and tourist office.
Air Passes
Mercosur Airpass: valid within Argentina, Brazil, Chile (except Easter Island), Paraguay and Uruguay. Participating airlines include Aerolíneas Argentinas (AR), Aerolíneas Del Sur (AS), Pluna (PU) and VARIG Airlines (RG). The pass can only be purchased by passengers who live outside South America and must be booked in conjunction with an international ticket. It is valid for a minimum of seven to a maximum of 45 days. At least two countries must be visited; dates can be changed but the flight route cannot. A maximum of three stopovers is allowed per country.

oneworld Visit South America Pass: valid within Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Colombia, Chile (except Easter Island), Ecuador, Paraguay, Peru, Uruguay and Venezuela. Participating airlines are Aer Lingus (EI), American Airlines (AA), British Airways (BA), Cathay Pacific (CX), Iberia (IB), JAL Japan Airlines, LAN (LA) and Qantas (QF). The pass must be bought outside South America in the country of residence. It allows unlimited travel to 34 cities. A minimum of three flights must be booked; prices depend on the amount of flight zones. For further details, contact one of the participating airlines.
Departure Tax
None.

Getting There by Water

Main port: Several towns on the coast are now regular stops in cruise company itineraries. Valparaíso ( www.portvalparaiso.cl ) is the best known. Shipping lines such as Compañía Chilena de Navegación Interoceánica (CCNI) ( www.ccni.cl ) and Compañía Sud Americana de Vapores (CSAV) (from New York and European ports) ( www.csav.cl ) operate there. The country's biggest port is San Antonio.

Getting There by Rail

Unless you're wildly curious about rail travel, there's no point in trying to enter Chile by train. A sporadic service did exist between Chile and Bolivia, and there is talk of reviving that line. However, if you want practical travel by land, stick to the bus.

Getting There by Road

The Pan American Highway enters Chile through Arica. There are frequent, reliable and comfortable buses that can come from as far north as Ecuador. There are also services from Argentina and Brazil to Santiago.
Cycling & Maps

Cycling in Chile
Cycling in Chile is a mixed bag. From extremely scary highways with no shoulder to being the only person for miles. The road conditions are just as diverse. On the whole, major routes in between bigger cities are well paved and have ample space for cyclists to travel on. You are not permitted to ride through most highway tunnels, but as you near the entrance, a pickup van will be close at hand; ready to strap the bikes on and escort you through to the other side. This is quite normal on Chile's highways.

Get off the beaten track though and it is a whole different story. Unpaved roads can be extremely bad. Bolivia aside, some of the worst in South America: poorly maintained with washboard; boggy sand and gravel; rocky and full of potholes. Make sure you have good racks and bags. they are in for a lot of shaking around. This is especially the case in and around the Lake District and even though, in 2010, they were ardently working on the tracks, it is going to take a long time before they are ever finished. The road works cause quite a number of delays too, but as a cyclist you are quite often let through and sometimes, if you are lucky, you get to ride on virgin road while the other traffic slugs through the road rubble.

Driving attitudes in Chile leave a lot to be desired. The growing abundance of fast, brand new 4x4's, Audis, BMW's and Mercedes' probably has something to do with it. On dirt country roads they are prone to driving like mad-men and coming extremely close to cyclists, with little regard for the dust they produce or your precarious position on the edge of a wobbly path. Drivers also tend to take extreme risks with overtaking on blind corners and on inclines. Keep your wits about you.

In cities, your biggest concern will first be the buses; and second the taxis. Both this breed of driver play no mercy when it comes to cyclists and therefore it is not uncommon to see cyclists avoiding unpleasant situations by riding on the left hand side of one-way streets or next to the median strip on more central roads. Unfortunately, there is not much of a road-cycling culture in Chile and this reflects in the limited amount of bike paths in populated areas and when present, the way they seem to illogically stop in the middle of nowhere. Many cyclists just dawdle along footpaths, not only due to traffic concerns, but also the number of one-way streets.

While Chile might be geographically thin it is 4,300 kilometres long country and you may find you need to take public transport to get to the places where you really want to cycle. This is not uncommon and for a fee (part official; part in the pocket) paid to the driver, your bike can be stored in the underneath luggage compartment of buses. It does pay to ask prior to booking your tickets though if bikes are allowed on and how much they will charge you. There are numerous bus services to choose from and they run regularly from all cities throughout the country.

And remember when crossing the borders into Chile, there are major restrictions on what food products you can bring into the country. See Crossing the Line in the Food, Drink and Vegetarian Fare Section for more details. You will need to plan carefully around this as on nearly all the unpaved immigration posts, it is a long hard ride on bad roads until you see the next shop. Products like milk powder, packaged oatmeal, pasta, bread, tinned vegetables and tomato sauce are allowed to be carried in.

The other pertinent issue for cyclists is water and if you have been travelling from the north of South America and into Chile, you'll be pleased to know that the tap water in the country is very safe to drink. For touring cyclists though, the problems arise in the northern desert region and more isolated areas south of Puerto Montt. Mining settlements in the north generally have their own supply of fresh drinkable water and won't mind you asking them for a few extra litres, if you have run out. The same applies if you pass a police post.

Long desert stretches require careful planning, not only for water, but food too. If you are travelling on some of the major highways, then the Estacionamientos [parking bays], will be a life-saver. These are by far the greatest asset to the Chilean road system. They have amazing facilities: tables, benches with grass umbrellas; toilets - with toilet paper, showers - with hot water, soap and of course you can stock up on that life saving liquid as well. It is advisable to carry enough fluids for 1½ to 2 days at a time in these areas. This will generally see you through the dry spots.

In the central Lake District or further south, this generally wont prove a problem and as long as you have some method of filtering or purifying the water, your liquid will generally taste better than any city tap supply.

Once away from the tourism, you can find yourself in beautiful wilderness with stunning panoramic views of nature's most extreme landscapes. But it will take some work on your part to get there. The roads, as earlier mentioned, can be terrible and the weather must be on your side too. You will need to be well equipped with all season riding and camping gear and be totally self sufficient for the long isolated stretches.

Chile's biggest draw-cards are the national parks and the quiet back roads around the lake district with a small sample of northern deserts thrown in for variety. Chile is as diverse as they come, with excellent spots to cycle tour, but the distances between these memorable destinations is great. And honestly in between can be torture riding: howling headwinds reducing you to a pathetically low one digit mileage; boringly mind-numbing scenery of literally nothing but sand and rock; exasperating undulations of insignificant highway; horrendously busy roads with equally inconsiderate driving and to top the journey off: nowhere to camp wild, but in a ditch. In light of all this, it pays to plan your tripthoughtfully and if you are pushed for time or are finding the environment that disagreeable, don't be too proud to jump on a bus every now and again. They are affordable and very convenient for skipping the bad bits.

arrow For an extensive report on cycling in Chile: Ivan Viehoff's website with excellent touring notes (from 1997-98)
arrow Ferry information from Somarco Limitada in the “Región de Los Ríos, (southern Chile)
arrow Listings of casas-de-ciclistas in Central and South America

Chile Map
International Travel Maps
scale 1:2 000 000

waterproof

 

 

 

 

       
GPS Free maps for GPS from http://viajerosmapas.com/
Cost of living
Chile: all prices in Chilean Pesos (CLP)
drinks and snacks food: local markets; restaurants; and stores

water (mineral)
water
juice
juice
soft drink (bottle)
soft drink (bottle)
soft drink (bottle)

5 litre
1.6 litre
1 litre
200ml
500ml
1.5 litre
3 litre

800-1400
500
500
220
500
870
1450

bread loaf-white
bread loaf-whole grain
bread rolls-white
baguette-pan de campo

680g
680g
per kg
each-thin
890
890
950
350
humitas
mote con huesillos
empanada queso
menú del día
vege meal - restaurant
pizza - takeaway
each
small / large
each
2 course+drink
main course
familiar
600
350 / 600
650-750
3000-5000
3500-5000
4500-6000
beer - local - bottle
beer
wine
wine
330ml
1 litre
750ml
1.5 litre
550
800
1000+
1500+
tea
coffee (cafe / bar)
jugo exocticas (cafe)
Nescafe instant
coffee - ground
20 bags
per cup
small-large
50g
250g
220
400
600-1000
1110
2000+
rice (white)
pasta
eggs
tomato salsa
carne de soya [soyameat]

kg
400g
per dozen
200g
300g

600
250+
1100
270
700
milk
yoghurt / curd
olives
cheese
cream cheese
Magnum-like icecream
1 litre
125g
200g
250g
227g
each

500
190
790
1300
2000
600

potatoes
onions
tomatoes
cabbage-large
brocolli
pimiento rojos
[capsicum]
cucumber

kg
kg
kg
each
per head
each large

each

750
550
800
800
490
590

210
chips
salted peanuts
cashews
almonds
sultanas
dried peaches
200g packet
200g
400g
100g
100g
300g
800
490
4990
780
450
1800
apples
oranges
bananas
grapes
pineapple
avocado
kg
kg
kg
kg
each
kg
990
790
460
1500
1400
700-1000

cornflakes
chocolate
museli bars
biscuits - plain
biscuits- chocolate

350g packet
150g block
6x20g
160g packet
120g packet
1300
810
660
370
350
pineapple (can)
oil (corn)
567g can
1 litre
750
950
peanut paste
jam
honey
510g jar
250g sachet
250g
1890
250
1350
* Majority of prices obtained from the Hiper Lider supermarket found throughout Chile. Prices at markets vary only slightly, but if anything they are somewhat cheaper.
accommodation personal
budget city hostel
(depending on city)
budget city hotel
4,000-5,500 per dorm bed
12-20,000 double share bathroom
35,000+ double with ensuite
deodorant - roll-on
soap
shampoo
toothbrush
toothpaste
disposable razor
toilet paper
50ml
90g bar
400ml
each
90g
3 pack
8 pack
990
390
900
600+
780
1300
1290
camping
wild camping
8,000-12,000 for 2 persons
yes, though difficult at times
internet 650+ per hour

* tba = price to be announced
* February 2010: at time of writing 1.00 USD = 509 CLP
all prices have been taken from internet resources such as wikitravel, hostel world, leading supermarket chains, travel blogs, forums and of course our own travel experiences and purchases of everyday products in food markets, bazaars and local shopping facilities. They are only an indication and designed to give you a general impression of the cost of living in Chile. Items are geared towards the budget conscious traveller with an occasional craving for a bit of luxury.

A couple of extra tips:
*
Bargaining at markets for souvenirs or when buying in bulk is perfectly acceptable. Other than that prices are fixed. It is also not uncustomary to ask for a discount if you are staying longer than a week in a hostal or hotel.
*
Tipping in Chile is not mandatory, though in tourist areas you'll find 10% automatically added to your bill. When you receive your cheque from the waitperson, they will point out that it is not obligatory to pay.
*
Taxi drivers do not expect tips but it is fairly usual to round the bill up to a convenient amount..
*
Food Restrictions: You cannot take any food or animal products into Chile without having them inspected first and they are vigilant at checking all your luggage. See Crossing the Line in the Food, Drink and Vegetarian Fare Section below for more details. The point to remember is at most border crossings, you will receive a form in which you have to declare whether you are carrying any food in your luggage. Answering NO and then having officials find a restricted product will result in a $US200 fine. So, unless you have gone through your belongings with a fine toothed comb prior to the border control, it is best to say YES. They are going to search your bags anyway and you are bound to have some small perishable item stashed somewhere that you have forgotten about.
*
There is a deposit on 1 litre beer bottles. Supermarkets generally add it to the bill when you go to the cash register, but you can run into problems in other stores if you don't bring an empty bottle with you. If fact, it is not uncommon for propietors to refuse point blank to sell you any beer at all. Some smaller stores give you a receipt for your beer with the deposit amount written on the back. You must return to the same store to get your money back. Anywhere else, they'll gladly take your bottles off your hands, or even exchange them for fresh beer, but you will not get any money out of them. Some of the Unimarc supermarkets will not return your deposit either, even when you have obtained your beer from their establishment and you have a receipt of purchase.
*
The secondhand clothing industry in Chile is big business and in and around the lake district especially, most towns will have a few stores to choose from. Good place to buy some "new" clothes for yourself and especially cold and wet weather gear.

*

Banco Estado is conveniently located throughout Chile and they don't charge for withdrawals, whereas many of the other banks do.
Accommodation
Tourism is more developed in Chile than in the South American countries to the north of it. With this comes a rather pricier tag on all forms of accommodation. Though, it doesn't mean that what you get is going to be any better in quality. That said, backpacker hostels in Santiago and other major route destinations are generally well equipped with kitchens and common areas; wifi and computers; comfortable rooms, mostly with share bathroom facilities and staff who speak several languages of which English will be one. The price in 2010 for a bed, is around 10,000 pesos, though if you stay for a longer period of time, you can easily receive a 10% or more discount. It pays to ask.

Most small towns will have simple lodgings though off the well trodden track, it will be more difficult to find accommodation. There are plenty of refugios to call into on the trekking trails. In general, it is better to seek out a hospedaje or residential if you are on a budget. These more homely run places can be a little run-down and not always in prime positions, but generally give you all you need for a few nights sleep with a comparably moderate price tag.

Camping in Chile
Wild camping in central Chile is not as easy as you might think. It is more populated than anywhere else in the country and they are lovers of the barbed wire, even in the seemingly desolate areas. Though there's no other experiences to draw on, if really stuck for somewhere to camp, one of the highway Estacionamientos [parking bays] might be an option. Along the coast, there are occasionally a few beaches that are accessible. Even Chileans use these places as free campgrounds. And in the summer months, you'll even see tents pitched on the side of the road near ocean plots. Other than that, you are limited to organised camping.

And this can be very disappointing for foreigners. It is more often than not, extremely expensive for what you get. Of course there are a couple of gems to discover and around the Lake District and on popular coastal regions, there are many options to choose from. Beware though, if you are travelling in the Chilean holiday season expect that a lot of the beachfront camp spots will be full.

North of Región de Coquimbo and south of Región de Los Lagos is less populated and wild camping possibilities a little easier, which is a good thing because it will be essential if slow-touring. Keep you rubbish well out of reach of wild animals and be cautious if building a campfire, though in some of the more popular areas you wont get the chance as it is banned, as is collecting firewood.

If you are cooking with a fuel stove, it is nice to know that the petrol (gasoline) in Chile is of a higher quality than in other South American countries. Stock up before venturing into Argentina, Bolivia or Peru.

Lists of campgrounds in Chile is reasonably well documented on internet, however tourist offices have even more information available. Be warned though, the Turistel maps are not very reliable. They do depict a few wild camping spots designated by a white tent symbol, which is helpful. Below are a few links to websites that could give you an indication of where camping is possible. For information about camping in national parks it is best to search for each park individually on line.

Excellent directory, by region, from CampingChile.cl
Small directory of campgrounds in chile from chilnet.cl
Camping facilities in Torres del Paine National Park
Camping in Puerto Montt
goChile.cl guide to the national parks with accommodation information
List of Chilean National Parks on Wikipedia
Wikitravel has some, but limited information about camping: click on one of the Chilean destinations available and scroll through to the "Sleep" category. Don't forget that, if it is a National Park area, then park fees also apply - and many have a dual pricing system for nationals and foreigners.

As far as outdoor gear is concerned, Mall Sport [Avenida Las Condes 13541, Las Condes] in Santiago, is the place that everyone talks about. Here, you can purchase all things sportive and camping should you need to replace something in your kit. The website has every store listed with tonnes of details about what products they stock. How to get there? Take metro line one to Escular Militar then take the C01 bus (two stops), but to be on the safe side ask the bus driver to let you know when you are there.

Internet in Chile
Internet cafés are everywhere in the well populated areas of the country and surprisingly enough, they don't close down during siesta. Most hostels offer wifi and a computer or two for travellers to use. Even campsite owners are getting on the broad-band wagon these days and quite often a wifi connection is offered included in your nightly price.

Acommodation we used while in Chile (December 2009 - February 2010): (prices based on two people sharing)
Star system explained: from 0 to ***** where 0 is a total disaster and ***** is luxurious (and out of our price range)
         
City / town: Name accommodation: Our experience: Price: Stars:
         
Calama Hotel Aymara net, clean, tidy, wifi, expensive CLP 30,000 ****
Coquimbo Camping Sole di Mar old and forgotten... CLP 10,000 *
Los Molles Camping Quebrada el Chivato nice staff and beach, spots so,so CLP 10,000 **
Panguipulli Camping Pemehue great views & amenities, friendly CLP 10,000 ***½
Puerto Fuy Camp ground no water / toilets, still have 2 pay CLP 3,000 ½
San Pedro de Atacama Eden de Atacameño staff looks tired, overall ok CLP 16,000 **
San Pedro de Atacama Hostal Vilacoyo small, musty, pleasant, kitchen use CLP 14,000 **
Santiago Hostal Forestal great staff / atmosphere, wifi CLP 18,000 ****
Valparaiso Hospedaje S.Javier old hostel but very warm people CLP 14,000 **
Villarrica Camping Villarrica (?) beware of the bathroom area ! CLP ½
Food & drink
Chileans love their barbeque and little else goes on the grate besides meat, meat and even more meat. So, as a vegetarian you are going to have to force a few vegetables on a clean bit grill or retreat to the kitchen and knock something up for yourself.

In central Chile, there is an abundance of fresh vegetables and fruit at local markets and in the stores, but you never really see much of it at the Chilean dinner table. Still, that's no concern if you are self catering, and hostels generally have pretty good kitchen facilities for this.

Another bonus for the vegetarian is, like Peru, you can readily find carne vegetal de soya [dried soya meat] in supermarkets. If you have ever been put off by this product in the past, then try it in South America. They have really come up with a tasty variety. One popular brand is Sabu, which also provides a range of other health food products.

Peanut butter or paste [depending where you come from] is also obtainable at a reasonable price. You cannot find this in Argentina or Bolivia and in Peru, it costs a small fortune. So, if you love this creamy, nutrient-loaded, "tied you over till dinner time" spread, then stock up in Chile.

Fresh produce outside of well populated areas can be scarce, so do some planning if you are going on some slow travel off the beaten track and still want to have a balanced diet. This also applies for water supplies as well.

 
VEGETARIAN TALK - Spanish
Soy vegetariano/a = I am vegetarian m/f

No como...ni... = I don't eat...nor...
Yo como...y... = I eat...and...
No quiero...o... = I don't want...or...

carne = meat
cerdo or puerco = pork
pollo [poh-yo] = chicken
pescado = fish
huevos = eggs
leche = milk
lácteos = milk products
queso = cheese

vedura = vegetables
fruta (fresca) = (fresh) fruit

Quiero... = I want...
Quisiera un plato que lleve... =
I want a dish containing ...

por favor = please
gracias = thank you
de nada = you're welcome

Bakery products are delicious and the Chilean panaderia certainly knows how to tempt you with their chocolate brownies; budin (Magdalena cake); or simply the intoxicating smell of freshly baked crusty bread rolls. Try pan marraqueta ; also called pan francés [french bread] and pan batido [kneaded bread] for starters.

As far as the restaurant scene is concerned, most establishments in tourist areas have at least one vegetarian option. And in the odd local eatery you can find menu del dia vegetariano [vegetarian set meal of the day]. Unfortunately, many of the strict vegetarian food-houses and buffets are not open in the evening for dinner; just for lunch. In that case the good ol' pizza is always a meal you can fall back on and available nearly everywhere. For a list of vegetarian venues throughout Chile take a look at the HappyCow website.

Crossing the line
Chile has strict rules about what can and cannot be brought into the country when it comes to food and animal products. And they are devoted to thoroughly searching your luggage. Products such as: honey, beeswax, feathers, untreated animal hides, fruit and vegetables (whether cooked, fresh or dried), cheese and other fresh milk products, fish and meat (cooked and raw), nuts and unprocessed seeds are unconditionally banned products. At border crossings, you receive a form in which you have to declare whether you are carrying any food. Think carefully before you answer NO. If officials find something you are entitled to pay a $US200 fine.

And furthermore, there is an internal food control boundary with similar restrictions when travelling south out of the Atacama Dessert.

Basically, if there is a tap in Chile, then the water is safe to drink. This is true for most parts of the country and especially in cities and towns, though it can have a slight chlorine aftertaste. Bottled water is also easily obtainable and purchased in bulk, it is inexpensive. The only problems that may arise are if you venture to more isolated places. Then you may need to source your water from streams and rivers. It is then advisable to treat it before drinking it.

Soft drinks are frighteningly popular and especially the light varieties. You can actually purchase pop in 3 litre bottles in Chile. Drinks without aspartame or saccharin are also difficult to find. It is then a blessing that the licuados, fruity milk shakes, are also available. And they are good.

Coffee on the other hand is not. For a country with such strong ties to Europe and so close to other South American countries renowned for their delectably roasted beans, it is quite surprising. You will almost always get the instant variety and not particularly good either. Ground coffee is available, but it is expensive.

But even if the coffee isn't up to scratch, Chileans certainly make up for it with their wines. The joy of waltzing into a supermarket and pulling a 10,000 peso (~€2.00) bottle from the shelf is, in itself, wonderful. But then finding out that you have scored a really lovely wine makes the event even more superb.

Cerveza [beer], is big and besides the local lagers Cristal, Escudo, Dorada and Royal Guard of which some also make dark beer, there is a fast growing trend in the boutique beer market in Chile. Kunstmann and Austral are commonly found in most supermarket chains these days and produce some refreshing pale ales; bock beers and specialties like honig ale [honey ale]. Cerveza Mestra is an example of one of the smaller companies on the market brewing top quality beers. The only glitch is these beers are extremely expensive in comparison with other alcoholic beverages in the country.

Which brings us onto pisco, which is just as popular as any other Chilean drink. Either as a Pisco Sour: modelled off the whiskey sour; or as a Piscola: which doesn't take much to work out what goes into it. In the sixteenth century, Spanish settlers first distilled the liquor from grapes and the name arose from the conical pottery in which it was aged.

Why not try these for starters?

Empanada de Queso
A deep-fried pastry turnover filled with cheese and found easily on street corners, in local stores, in the bakery and fast food chains. Delicious snack to keep the hunger at bay.

Humitas
Basically the same as tamales and found extensively throughout South and Central America. In Chile they are prepared with fresh corn, onion, basil, and mantequilla [butter] or manteca de cerdo [lard], so as a vegetarian, you need to ask before you take a bite. As are all versions of this traditional dish, they are wrapped in corn husks tied in place with string and then either boiled, baked or steamed.

In Chile, many enjoy adding a sprinkling of sugar to their humita before eating, but if you are not a sweet tooth then a crumbling of queso fresca [soft white cheese] and dash of aji [chilli pepper sauce] zests the dish up nicely. Served with salsa de aji rojo: a finely chopped salad made from tomatoes, onions, red chillies and coriander, is also highly recommended. But really, whichever way you like it, they are nutritious, delicious and highly satisfying.

Porotos Granados
This hearty stew dates back to pre-Hispanic times and uses products indigenous to the region. Traditionally made with cranberry beans (also known as borlotti beans), pumpkin or squash, corn, onion and tomatoes, it is spiced with oregano, cumin, garlic and basil. Served piping hot in a big soup bowl with a side basket of fresh marraqueta bread rolls and guaranteed you'll be as satisfied as with any homely hot-pot your mother used to put in front of you.

Queso de Cabra y Papaya
Queso de Cabra [goats cheese] is found on little highway stalls running from La Serena to Valparaiso and it is really good. You can also pick up quality olive oil and papaya in every sort of preserved form you can think of. So, when you see a women standing on the side of the highway, holding out a wooden plank with cheese rounds nailed to it, it is really worthwhile stopping. When you see one holding a freshly skinned and gutted goat, turn your head.

Sopaipillas
Sopaipillas are deep fried pastry fritters differing greatly depending on which part of the country you are in. North of San Javier they have pumpkin in their dough and are drizzled with chancaca [black treacle or molasses] and eaten as dessert. South of Linares however, the pumpkin is omitted and they usually replace bread. It is not uncharacteristic to smother them with a spicy yellow mustard either. So lets face it, your route could well be depicted by your preference. Sweet or savoury? North or south?
La Panadería Alemana [The German Bakery]
Since the landscape of southern Chile, with its lakes, rivers and forests, harbors a similar environment to areas in Germany, many European settlers began to move there in the mid 1800's. And naturally, their influence has steeped into Chilean food culture. So, if you happen to travel to the Chilean Lake District, then don't forget to sample some of the delicious bakery products.
Kuchen de quesillo: a Chilean version of cheesecake;
Strudel: which hardly needs explanantion; and
Berlín: just like a berliner doughnut, only filled with either dulce de membrillo [quince jelly]; crema pastelera [custard cream] or manjar [caramel spread] and of course dusted with sugar.

Cuchuflí
Crispy wafer tubes filled with manjar or dulce de leche [caramelised milk spread]. Simple, sweet and often sold by street vendors. Cuchufleta actually translates as deceipt or trickery, which is where this crispy biscuit roll first got its name. Originally, the barquillo [a tube without any filling] only had the tips filled, leaving the middle section empty. But that's no fun at all, is it?

Cherimoyas
Known in the western world as the custard apple, this slightly oblique, tubercle skinned fruit was heralded by Mark Twain as "the most delicious fruit known to men". While not everyone will agree, it is worthwhile trying if you have never sunk your teeth into the white flesh of a cherimoya. Besides the silky soft and sweet texture, it gives an almost sherbet-like sensation. Often described as a combination of tropical fruits, its flavour has also been likened to bubblegum.

It is widely available in season and often flavours fruit juices and yoghurt drinks in the supermarkets if you are unlucky with finding the fresh variety.

And a few tips when shopping for this unusual fruit: go for the larger examples with uniformly green skin that gives slightly to pressure, like an avocado. Be pre-warned, if crushed, the easily removed, dark, glossy seeds are poisonous with insecticide properties.

Mote con Huesillo
You can't get more Chilean than mote con huesillo and they even have the expression “Más chileno que el mote con huesillos" to verifying its traditional status. Known also as the “refreshing national drink”, this typical beverage is sold fresh by street vendors or packaged in the supermarkets. It is extremely popular in the summer months.

As the name would imply, it is simply mote [cooked barley] mixed with a sugar or honey boosted liquid made from soaking huesillos [whole dried peaches]. Sweet, peachy and syrupy to drink with a little something to eat as well. Couldn't ask for more; or maybe you will?

Piscola
Piscola is just as the name spells out: Pisco and Cola, and though less common with locals, it can be mixed with ginger ale or sprite. Also known as Combinado Nacional [national mixed drink], the Chileans are inclined to mix this potent highball cocktail with a spirit to soft drink ratio of anything from 1:1 to 1:3. And if you happen to be in Chile on February 8, then it is all the more reason to try one: since 2003, this date is celebrated as the Day of the Piscola.
Bike shops
   
Santiago

If you are looking for some serious bike parts in Santiago, you are in the right place when you hit the corner of San Diego and Coquimbo. All along San Diego there are bike shops, but hardly as concentrated as near this intersection. If you can't find it here... ***

Climate
climate chart Antofagasta Chile climate chart Punta Arenas Chile
climate chart Valparaiso Chile climate chart Valvidia Chile
Road distances
Chile road distance chart

 


Detailed distance chart from our trip through Chile - December 2009 (km/alti)      
         
  altitude (in metres) in brackets
accomm.:
km
altimeters
  H= hotel / hospedaje . C= camping
E= estacionamiento (parking, water, showers) sections in red: unpaved
         
Ollagüe (border Bolivia, 3761, H) miners camp Ascotán (3744)      
miners camp Ascotán Paso Fronterizo Ascotán (3966)      
Paso Fronterizo Ascotán turn-off Est. San Pedro (3410)      
turn-off Est. San Pedro Chiu Chiu (2719)      
Chiu Chiu Calama (2307)
H
34
76
Calama Paso Barros Arana (3411)
62
1102
Paso Barros Arana San Pedro de Atacama (2493)
H
38
232
         
La Serena Camping Morillos (0)
C
28
300
Camping Morillos Camping Los Mostazos (48)
C
3
45
Camping Los Mostazos turn-off Guanaqueros (80)
C
2
31
turn-off Guanaqueros Estacionamiento (133)
E
25
214
Estacionamiento turn-off Quebrada Seca (125)
11
98
turn-off Quebrada Seca turn-off Ovalle (44)
E
29
161
turn-off Ovalle Alcones (201)
8
194
Alcones Mineral de Talca (273)
17
298
Mineral de Talca La Cebada (0)
E
9
9
La Cebada Toll Pto. Oscuro (139)
55
966
Toll Pto. Oscuro Huentelaquén Norte (65)
E
17
136
Huentelaquén Norte Huentelaquén Sur (20)
6
22
Huentelaquén Sur Playa Chigualoco (5)
C
17
234
Playa Chigualoco Los Villos (31)
H
19
228
Los Villos Estacionamiento (38)
E
19
225
Estacionamiento Pichidangui (59)
9
99
Pichidangui Los Molles (2)
C
10
77
Los Molles Pichicuy (50)
13
130
Pichicuy turn-off Papudo (12)
18
246
turn-off Papudo Papudo (2)
H
14
141
Papudo Zapallar (64)
H
10
108
Zapallar La Laguna (3)
H
13
201
La Laguna turn-off La Caldera (40)
15
157
turn-off La Caldera Concon (5)
H
28
244
Concon Valparaiso (35)
H
25
83
   
Valparaiso top climb out (360)
10
349
top climb out turn-off Casablanca (266)
28
211
turn-off Casablanca Estacionamiento (276)
E
5
19
Estacionamiento Túnel Zapata (439) no cycling!
11
160
Túnel Zapata turn-off Curacavi (233)
7
9
turn-off Curacavi Túnel Lo Prado (481) no cycling !
23
338
Túnel Lo Prado Santiago (580)
H / C
29
142
         
Santiago turn-off Colina (618)
32
124
turn-off Colina Túnel Chacabuco (1065) no cycling !
29
438
Túnel Chacabuco Los Andes (835)
H
17
120
Los Andes Rio Blanco (1387)
34
626
Rio Blanco Portillo (2783)
H
27
1380
Portillo Túnel Cristo Redentor (3081)
6
295
         
For more on this trip, see the Argentina country information page.
         
border control Argentina Paso Pino Hachado (1863)
7
391
Paso Pina Hachado Liucura / border control Chile (1009)
22
68
Liucura / border control Chile Icalma (1098)
H/C
30
415
Icalma top climb (1281)
12
319
top climb Puente Tracura (575)
11
11
Puente Tracura Melipueco (437)
H
20
68
Melipeuco Cunco (398)
H
33
70
Cunco Los Laureles (273)
21
10
Los Laureles Villarrica (235)
H/C
38
584
Villarrica top climb (451)
15
234
top climb turn-off Panguipulli (365)
4
22
turn-off Panguipulli top climb (553)
12
259
top climb turn-off Lican Ray (268)
6
2
turn-off Lican Ray Panguipulli (161)
H/C
17
93
Panguipulli Chauquén (163)
C
8
161
Chauquén turn-off Puerto Fuy (182)
15
228
turn-off Puerto Fuy turn-off Choshuenco (214)
C
36
597
turn-off Choshuenco turn-off Liquene (271)
4
64
turn-off Liquene Puerto Fuy (621)
H/C
13
403
Puerto Fuy Puerto P (621)
ferry
Puerto P border control Chile (611)
5
90
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