On the road . August 2009 . Colombia and Ecuador
Iguana Guesth. [website ] Cali, Columbia,
15-08-09
Ibagué to Santiago de Cali
(5 cycle
days; 1 rest days; 369km; 5100m)
Ibagué to Cajamarca (38km; 1099m)
Cajamarca to Armenia (72km; 1580m)
Armenia to Buga (109km; 595m)
Buga to Lago Calima (51km; 1018m)
Lago Calima to Cali (99km; 808m)
Green spikey caterpillars...
You can't describe today any other way than another
day of Colombian climbing. As soon as we have manoeuvred
a path through the chaos of Ibagué traffic and
one way streets we are sliding out via the back door
slums. Homeless clutching grubby white sacks, wade through
rubbish in the hope of finding something useful to pop
in one of them. What they find of value in there, I
do not really know. It all looks like muck to me, but
the activity is fervent and by the sound of the delighted
whoop as I cycle by, collection is definitely taking
place.
A couple of colourfully painted wall
murals cheer up the scene a little as we further our
way out of town and then what I see around me takes
second precedence...
Tip of the month: the benefit of enamel plates
Okay, metal plates are
going to weigh a little more plastic ones,
but they do have their advantages...
Not only are they cheap
and robust, but they can keep your food
warm too. Firstly, in combination with a
tea towel-wrapped cooking pot, you can save
from two thirds to half the cooking time
of pasta and rice. Secondly, used as a base
and lid, when making something elaborate
like homemade chips or a pile of pancakes,
the plates can keep one batch hot while
cooking another: especially if you cover
them with a tea towel. Furthermore, set
next to an open fire they have similar benefits
for keeping your tucker at the temperature
you like it.
Ibagué (Colombia) - Quito (Ecuador)
Kilometres: 1126 kilometres and 810 metres
Riding days: 17
Alti meters: 18,803 (new record!)
Weather: generally more overcast and
cooler (because of the altitude)
Best accommodation: Hotel Pasviveros in Ipiales.
Everything Colombia is about: friendliness,
hospitality and warmth all under one roof
in the centre of Ipiales.
Special thanks to:
Luigi, Alba, Valentina and Donatella for letting
us stay at their place, for the food, the great conversations and the tour
to Salento • Hermes for offering us a place to stay in Tuluá
(although we declined) • José Oscar, his family and Baptiste Roux for showing such generous hospitality on several occasions and taking us
on tour around recycling Cali. And for arranging the interview
with the El País newspaper • Jonathan and his girlfriend for the pineapple
gift • The motorcycle 'gang' for inviting us to have
a drink in El Pedregal • Karsten for accompanying us on the road • All the drivers that have given us the 'thumbs up'.
Breakdowns:
09: flat tyre (Son)
16: flat tyre (Son)
